Ruthin Area
Devil's Gorge
Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry
World's End
Craig Arthur
Twilight Area
Pinfold
Monk's Buttress
Dinbren
Trevor Area
Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech
Pontesford
6
About Time.
2
tfΩ
7b
A line that bisects
Tito
via some low technical moves and an
easy central section before stepping right and climbing a shallow
scoop in the headwall to a very taxing finale on small holds.
Superb climbing but frustrating at the top. High first bolt.
FA. Gary Gibson 28.5.2009
7
Pour Lulubelle.
2
Ω
E3 5c
A filler-in but a good one. Climb the difficult smooth wall - peg
and bolt - to the main overlap. Above this take the superbly-
positioned blunt rib via cracks and edges.
FA. Gary Gibson 30.7.2011
1
Rubs and Tugs.
1
ptΩ
7c
A hard sport route through the left-hand side of the big roof.
1)
4b
, 17m. Move up and then left to a belay above the tree.
Care needed with the rock but the climbing is easy.
2)
7c
, 16m. Follow the line of bolts leading across left through
the roof to a lower-off.
FA. Marc Rooms 2003
2
Eliminator.
3
ptΩ
E4 6b
An exceptionally positioned top pitch on some great rock.
1)
-
, 17m. Move up and then left to a belay above the tree. Care
needed with the rock but the climbing is easy.
2)
6b
, 16m. The double roof stack above guards entry to the
headwall. Climb to the roof and crank through it onto the
headwall (two pegs). The rounded scoop of lovely rock is taken
past a bulge to the top (thread and peg).
FA. John Moulding, F.Stevenson 5.9.1983
3
Pi .
3
tsΩ
8a
Craig Arthur's hardest route and one of its most impressive
lines. Start at the first stance of
Eliminator
.
FA. Rob Mirfin 9.2005
4
California Highway Patrol
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
sftΩ
7c
A fine technical pitch on good rock after an unsavoury start.
Climb up easy but very loose ground to the base of the bulge,
thread and pegs. Pull through the bulge with difficulty and
embark on a brilliant sequence up the wall with a final testing
move to reach a pocket and then the lower-off.
FA. Pete Chadwick 2.7.2005. A route with a chequered history, originally
equipped and chipped several years ago, hence the route name - 'CHiPs'.
5
Tito .
1
tΩ
E2 5b
This sustained route follows the left-hand side of the superb
grey sheet of rock. Start as for the first pitch of
Eliminator
. Move
up, as for
Eliminator,
then break right on a subtle line across
slabby grey rock (peg) to a bulge. Climb up and then back
right, with more difficulty, to an overhang and thread (possible
stance). Pull up left through the overhang, via a crack, to reach a
small tree. Easier ground leads to a large rounded scoop (loose).
Follow this to finish.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 3.5.1980
Descent
102
Craig Arthur
Digitron Area
Digitron Area
An attractive vertical wall of compact grey rock that has
three great climbs on it.
Digitron
is one of the UK's better
E2s and should not be missed
a
Access -
The 'no climbing restriction due to nesting
birds' may include this buttress - see page 96.
Dance of the Puppets - p.101
