Clwyd Limestone Sample 2015 - page 21

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area
Dinbren Monk's Buttress
Pinfold Twilight Area
Craig Arthur
World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area
w
Acapulco. . . . . . . . . . . .
1
7a+
Climb directly up the right-hand side of the buttress via the
left-hand side of a huge ledge. It shares its start with
Chills of
Apprehension
.
FA. Gary Gibson 25.7.1993
e
Chills of Apprehension.
E4 6a
A good natural line up the right side of the buttress. Climb
up the rightward-trending line through the bulge (pegs and a
thread). Above this difficult section, move left beneath some
overhangs and climb up via a wall and groove that lead to the
wide crack on the right-hand side of the overhangs.
FA. Steve Boyden, John Moulding 31.5.1985
r
Jam Spread. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ω
6b+
The short difficult bulge, shallow groove and wall.
FA. Gary Gibson 1.9.2010
t
Lemon Kerred.
E3 6b
A short semi-sport line to a lower-off on the tree.
FA. Gary Gibson, Doug Kerr 31.8.1991
y
Freshly Dug. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ω
6a
A pleasant face climb at far end of the wall.
FA. Gary Gibson, Hazel Gibson 25.6.2009
9
Sunnyside Up Mix .
3
ptΩ
7b
A stunning pitch up the left-hand side of the buttress. The start
is hard, the wall above is technical but the finish is as good as it
gets - brilliant upside down jug-pulling across the capping roof
in a wild position. There is belay at the start.
FA. Gary Gibson 31.7.1992
0
Black Poppies.
2
ftΩ
7b+
The hardest route on the buttress has some difficult fingery
climbing on the lower wall and the finish is a real stopper unless
you can confidently finger jam up overhanging flared cracks!
Very memorable. There is a bolt belay at the start.
FA. Gary Gibson 27.5.1991
q
Chilean Moon .
1
rpΩ
7b
A worthwhile route but not as good as its neighbours. Pulling
through the lower bulge at the start is hard. Higher up there is
some reasonable climbing but the finish feels a little eliminate in
nature. Start at the
Black Poppies
belay.
FA. Gary Gibson 5.7.1992. The route was reclimbed after the loss of a large
flake at the start by Lee Proctor 6.8.2002
5
6
7
8
9
0
q
w
e
r t
y
Descent
115
Sunnyside Area 
Craig Arthur
RS$
C
35 min
30m
18m
1...,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20 21
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