Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area
Dinbren Monk's Buttress
Pinfold Twilight Area
Craig Arthur
World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area
5
The Marsh Flower .
1
tΩ
7a
Climb the blank wall, moving right and then up and back left
(very close to
Stratagem
). Continue with interest to a break and
finish more easily via a crack just right.
FA. Gary Gibson 12.4.1993
6
Legacy.
tlΩ
E1 5b
1)
5b
, 18m. Climb to a peg in a corner, on a slab. Move left and
down to a ledge. Continue traversing over loose rock to a tree
belay.
2)
5a
, 18m. Move to the right side of the bay and climb to the
top via the easiest line on loose ground. A dangerous route.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 28.8.1976
7
Stratagem.
1
sΩ
E2 5b
A reasonable climb although the rock is a little loose in places.
Follow
Legacy
to the peg on the slab and continue to a bulge
(peg). Climb up steeply leftwards to a break with difficulty and
then move right and up (peg) to a tree. Finish up the crack.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 28.8.1976
8
Manikins of Horror.
4
tsΩ
E3 5c
One of the best pitches on the crag featuring sustained and
technical climbing with generally excellent protection. Begin 4m
right of the ground-level tree. Move up to a break and go left to
a little corner with a peg above. From the peg move delicately
left around the shallow rib to a slab beneath a slim crack. Follow
the lovely crack past pegs to a horizontal break. Move left to a
tree and climb the crack above to finish.
Photo on page 37
.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 29.5.1976
9
Masquerade .
2
tsΩ
7b+
A fine direct line up the left-hand side of the buttress with a very
technical move at half-height and sustained climbing above. The
first bolt is high up - above where the line leaves
Manikins of
Horror
- and needs some gear or a long clip-stick.
FA. Gary Gibson 1.9.2010
0
Swlabr Link.
1
ltΩ
E3 6a
This excellent route has unfortunately suffered a rockfall at the
end of the traverse and now has some dangerous loose blocks
and unstable rock on it.
1)
6a
, 25m. Follow
Masquerade
to a thin horizontal break at mid
height and traverse this right to easier ground (loose blocks).
Move up to a good ledge by a tree.
2)
5b
, 14m. Move left and climb the excellent exposed crack as
for pitch 2 of
Swlabr
.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Nick Slaney 4.6.1981
q
Dance of the Puppets.
2
ftΩ
7b
A good sport route up the slender buttress. Climb directly up
the grey nose then make a long stretch to gain the traverse line
of
Swlabr Link
. Make some thin moves to a rounded break and
then gain better holds in a scoop. Pull up and climb leftwards
into a second scoop. A final hard move rightwards gains good
flake-holds that lead to the lower-off.
FA. John Codling, John Moulding 5.5.1984
w
Hand in Glove.
1
tsΩ
7a
Straight up the right-hand side of the wall with a technical lower
bulge and sustained climbing above, keeping just left of
Swlabr
.
Move left and up to the belay.
FA. Gary Gibson 4.6.2011
e
Swlabr.
lΩ
HVS 5b
A great top crack but the lower section is unpleasant.
1)
4b
, 17m. Take the easiest line up the vegetated ground to a
belay on a good ledge and tree. A poor pitch.
2)
5b
, 14m. Move left and climb the excellent, exposed crack.
FA. Bob Dearman, Martin Pedlar 1969
101
Manikins of Horror Area
Craig Arthur
Eliminator - p.102
