Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area
Dinbren Monk's Buttress
Pinfold Twilight Area
Craig Arthur
World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area
3
Was it Stew.
1
tΩ
6c+
The well-bolted line up the wall to the left of the left-trending
overhanging flake-line of
The Fall and Decline
. Technical
climbing up the bolted white pillar leads to a junction with the
last section of the left-trending flake. Continue up this to a large
ledge and the lower-off.
FA. Gary Gibson 12.4.1993
4
The Fall and Decline.
2
slΩ
E3 5c
The left-trending line through the overhangs is a spectacular
route, featuring strenuous climbing and good protection.
1)
5c
, 25m. Gain the flake-line and climb it to the overhangs.
Traverse left (peg) and pull into a groove with difficulty. Move
up and right to an arete (peg) and climb it and a wall to a stance.
2)
5a
, 12m. The overhang above the stance to easier ground.
Best avoided because of loose rock.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 2.10.1977
5
Le Chacal.
1
sΩ
E3 5c
A wild and exposed initial pitch through the overhangs.
1)
5c
, 25m. Gain the flake-line and move right into a corner.
Follow this to the overhang and traverse strenuously right to a
peg. Make a difficult move to gain the lichen-covered wall above,
and then go right to a ledge and belay.
2)
5a
, 12m. Move up the crack on the right of the belay to a
tree. Climb rightwards into an easier groove to finish.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Dave Whitlow 14.6.1981
6
A Touch of Class .
2
ltΩ
E2 5b
An old classic up a series of slabs, corners and overhangs.
Pitches 1 and 2 are easily linked together.
1)
5b
, 28m. Climb easily to a ledge. Move right along the ledge
to its end before making bold moves up the wall to a peg.
Traverse thinly right (peg) to eventually make a step down onto
a ramp. Take the ramp to the overhang and stance.
2)
5b
, 14m. This pitch has some poor rock. Traverse right into
a hanging corner and climb strenuously up it to a thread. Move
out right and up to a tree. Above is another tree and a good
stance.
3)
5a
, 10m. Traverse left with difficulty before stepping down left
on to a tiny exposed ledge. Finish up the juggy wall.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Paul Stott 13.10.1980
7
Front of House.
2
tsΩ
7a
A very good pitch that tackles the rib and overlaps to the belay
of
La Chacal
. Move up to a rounded protuberance. Go up to
a break and through the bulge before climbing the wall above
to the traverse on
A Touch of Class
. Continue up through the
bulges above to a ledge and lower-off.
FA. Gary Gibson 3.7.2011
8
Back Yard Holiday.
1
tsΩ
6c+
Good sustained climbing. Follow
Front of House
to the junction
with
A Touch of Class
. Move right and up to the bulge. Pull over
the bulge and a finish up a shallow groove.
FA. Paul Stott, Dave Greenald 6.1988
9
Swelling Itching Brain .
1
tΩ
7b+
Climb to the break and then continue up the wall with great
difficulty. Step right to the base of a ramp and continue more
easily up this before climbing left through the bulge above to
easier ground.
FA. Gary Gibson 20.7.1991
0
One Continuous Picnic.
2
sΩ
7b
A difficult and sustained line. Climb to the large break. Continue
up a thin crack-line via a sustained series of hard moves to a
roof. Move directly up to a good handhold and go left to a ledge
and easier climbing.
FA. Gary Gibson, Phil Gibson 8.6.1991
q
Three Dimensions.
2
sΩ
E2 5b
The impressive left-trending flake and corner system.
1)
5b
, 26m. Climb the flakes to a peg. Move right and up
to a crack in a corner. Move up to, and then left beneath an
overhang, gaining the hanging corner of
A Touch of Class
.
2)
5b
, 10m. Climb the corner on the left and move over the roof
on good holds but suspect rock.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Mike Hughes 29.6.1980
6
9
0
q
99
Le Chacal Area
Craig Arthur
40m
30m
Sugar Sweet - p.100
