Ruthin Area
Devil's Gorge
Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry
World's End
Craig Arthur
Twilight Area
Pinfold
Monk's Buttress
Dinbren
Trevor Area
Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech
Pontesford
1
Friday the Thirteenth.
1
hlΩ
E5 6a
An adventurous mission up the huge face.
1)
6a
, 22m. Start by the smaller tree at the base of the wall.
Move up from either side of the tree to gain a small groove (peg
low on left) before moving up left again to better holds. Above
is a large, semi-detached jammed block at the right-hand end of
a long narrow overhang. Take a rightwards line to the block and
use it to access the wall above (peg). The belay is a little higher
in the horizontal break.
2)
5c
, 18m. Move right to the central groove and climb this to a
capping roof. Pass the roof on the right and finish up the loose
corner.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 13.4.1984
FA. (Direct start) John Moulding, John Codling 29.9.1987
2
Oblivion.
2
sΩ
E6 6b
A direct assault on the wall passing through
Friday the
Thirteenth
and starting and finishing as for
Manic Mechanic
.
FA. Gary Gibson 11.8.2009
3
Manic Mechanic .
3
sΩ
E6 6b
A stunning, action-packed line involving a great deal of difficult
climbing with a high crux. The streaked ramp is slow to dry
and can be dirty. Start beneath the base of the ramp. Climb the
wall past a bolt to the ramp. At the top of the ramp make blind
moves up the steep wall, past two pegs, to reach the upper of
two breaks. Move a little left then climb the fine pocketed wall
rightwards, past a thread, to an intimidating perch beneath the
roof. Traverse left (peg over lip - difficult to clip) and pull over
the roof with difficulty, to a short wall and the top.
FA. John Moulding, John Codling (rests) 5.1984. FFA. Andy Pollitt 1984.
4
Relentless .
4
sΩ
7b+
A fine addition straight up the centre of the wall using a high
hanging arete and with a super-exposed roof finale. Sustained
despite two good rest spots.
Photo on page 108
.
FA. Gary Gibson 19.6.2011
5
Smokin' Gun.
3
ftsΩ
E6 6c
Brilliant and technically sustained climbing up the centre of the
Nemesis Wall. Good but spaced protection throughout.
1)
6c
, 21m. Pull up and traverse left to a ledge beneath a
groove. Climb into the groove (bolt) and continue to a second
bolt. Using some poor undercuts, make a difficult reach for
some tiny crimps, then rock up to reach a good flake and wires.
Continue to a poor peg, then move rightwards into a niche and
a rest (bolt on right). Move left around the arete (bolt) and climb
the technical wall above to the break and belay (old pegs backed
up with good cams).
2)
6a
, 18m. Gain the overhung niche above, then move right
past a shallow corner onto and across the wall (pegs). Keep
traversing until it is possible to break through the bulge past two
final pegs.
FA. John Moulding 21.5.1988
6
Shootin' Blanks.
3
ftsΩ
E6 6c
The alternative direct finish to
Smokin' Gun
enables the centre
of this superb wall to be climbed in one stunning pitch. Continue
direct above the
Smokin' Gun
belay to reach the overhung niche.
Pull around the overhang (bolt) then climb the technical wall,
keeping to the right of the flakes in the finishing groove of
Friday
the Thirteenth
.
FA. Lee Proctor 22.8.2004
7
Tres Hombres .
3
thsΩ
E6 6b
A big adventure that should not be underestimated. Start just left
of the tree below a ramp at 8m.
1)
6b
, 23m. Climb the deceptively difficult wall (peg at the
start of the ramp), and move up to the top of the ramp (bolt).
A series of hard moves past a peg and bulge (sometimes wet)
are rewarded with a bolt. Move left around the arete (bolt) then
climb the tricky wall above to the break and belay (old pegs
backed up with good cams).
2)
5c
, 18m. Traverse left to the steep finishing groove of
Friday
the Thirteenth
.
FA. John Moulding, Nick Jowett, Steve Boyden 5.1984
8
Mercury Rising .
3
tsrΩ
7b+
A super direct plum up the wall with a hard technical groove
to start, a reachy move away from
Tres Hombres
and a tough
finale. A good no-hands rest is available at half height.
FA. Gary Gibson 28.12.2012
9
Steppin' Razor.
1
tsΩ
E5 6b
The first of two lines that begin at the large tree on the right-
hand side of the face. The starts are concealed by the tree.
Monkey up the tree and stretch left to clip a peg. Move onto the
wall and up, past a bolt, to cross the long horizontal overhang
on its left. Continue to an old peg and climb the groove above to
another overhang (peg). Move right through the overhang to a
slab (peg) and finish up the wall past a final peg.
FA. John Moulding, John Codling 24.4.1988
0
Marie Antoinette .
1
psΩ
E5 6b
From a ledge at the base of the tree, move up and then out right
onto the arete and a high bolt. The arete is a tight line and leads
past a peg and another bolt to a break beneath a bulge. Good
climbing up the finger-crack above attains the final roof which
provides a strenuous tussle via a groove and peg.
FA. John Codling, John Moulding 22.5.1988
110
Craig Arthur
Nemesis Wall
Survival of the Fastest - p.107
