CoastguardN
Ruthin Area
Devil's Gorge
Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry
World's End
Craig Arthur
Twilight Area
Pinfold
Monk's Buttress
Dinbren
Trevor Area
Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech
Pontesford
7
Gates of the Golden Dawn.
2
pΩ
E5 6b
A fabulous line up the front of the buttress finishing in a wild
position through the capping roofs. Better if started up
These
Foolish Things
with a traverse to the belay at the top of pitch 1.
1)
5b
, 20m.
From the upper ledge. Step left to the bottom of a
very lichenous corner. Climb this, to an overlap and then climb
the groove-line on the right to a stance - many pegs.
2)
6b
, 15m. Move up past a small ledge to the capping
roofs - old bolt - and make tough moves through these to a final
layback and the top. Threads and a peg.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Greg Griffith (1pt) 15.5.1980.
FFA. John Moulding, John Codling 6.5.1987
8
The Deadly Trap .
Ω
E3 5c
An old line that is now rarely attempted.
1)
5b
, 20m. Pitch 1 of
Gates of the Golden Dawn
.
2)
5c
, 21m. Move up towards the roof (old bolt) then traverse
right (thread) and down-climb a short groove to a small ledge.
Traverse right to finish up a groove and wide crack on the
right-hand side of the roofs.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Nick Slaney 22.8.1977
1
Scrapyard Things.
ltΩ
E1 5a
1)
5a
, 20m. Climb the dodgy-looking flake-crack on the left-hand
side of a detached pillar to its top. Proceed up the wall above
(peg) to a belay below an overhang on the right.
2)
5a
, 12m. Move through the overhang on its left (pegs) to a
large ledge. Finish up a chimney on the right.
FA. Bob Dearman, Martin Pedlar 1969. FFA. Stuart Cathcart 1979
2
Uncrossed.
Ω
7a
Climb direct up a rib, passing a ledge, to the bulge.
FA. Gary Gibson 20.12.2014
3
Those Stumbling Words.
lΩ
7a
A direct line through two overlaps. A bouldery start (avoidable
on the left) leads through poor rock in the mid-section to a good
finale.
FA. Gary Gibson, Hazel Gibson 25.6.2009
4
Double Crossbones .
1
lhΩ
E3 5c
1)
5c
, 12m. A good little pitch up excellent rock, past a peg in a
horizontal break, to a fluttery shallow scoop.
2)
5a
, 12m.
The overhang and corner to a belay on the left.
3)
5a
, 15m. Move back to the corner and go right to the exposed
arete below an overhang (peg). Move through the overhang on
the right and traverse right to finish up a broken crack.
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 18.5.1980
5
Delaware Slide.
2
shΩ
E4 6a
A good and demanding pitch. Climb up good rock past a thread
and move right up a little ramp to an overhang (peg). Pass the
overhang on the right and stretch for a good hold above. At
the next overhang (old bolt which needs a wire over the bolt
head) pull up to a peg in a small corner, avoiding some unstable
undercuts, and move left and up with difficulty (old bolts above).
Finish up the broken crack.
FA. John Moulding, John Codling 11.4.1984
6
These Foolish Things.
4
trΩ
7a+
A brilliant technical route with hard moves at the top, although
there are also some tricky sections lower down. There is a
lower-off and a 60m rope just makes it down.
Photo on page 11
.
FA. Gary Gibson, Phil Gibson 1.6.1991
1
2
3 4
5
114
Craig Arthur
Sunnyside Area
Sunnyside Area
The final section of Craig Arthur, just before the descent
gully, is a roof-capped wall of good rock. The wall has a
selection of harder sport pitches and a couple of good
trad lines. The area is the first reached on the approach -
at the far right-hand end of the cliff.
a
Access -
No climbing from 15th Feb to 15th July
between markers because of nesting birds. This is a
variable restriction - see page 96.
