Pembroke (2009)



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Rockfax Digital content note – The Pembroke coverage on Rockfax Digital has been significantly updated (latest update – April 2024) with almost a completely new set of crag photos, much-improved maps, seven new crags, many extra buttresses and over 500 additional routes.

The current 2009 book covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David’s and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey’s Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!

The full guide is available on Rockfax Digital
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2024 Rockfax Digital Update – The Rockfax Digital version has been significantly updated three times and now has more than 500 extra routes, superb new aerial crag photographs and big detailed new maps. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has 1173! The digital version includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson’s 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix from areas like Newton Head and Lydstep Cavern Bay.

The areas covered include the easy-to-navigate, vast walls of Trevallen and St Govan’s, the walk-in delights of Stennis Head, and the deep, thrilling chasms of Huntsman’s Leap and Stennis Ford. Whilst further into the amazing Range East, we have the grade-friendly Saddle Head, the grand testpieces of The Castle, and the delightful outlying walls and slabs of Mewsford, Crickmail and Flimston Bay, along with all the guaranteed pleasures of Rusty Walls, Misty Walls, Triple Overhang and the atmospheric Hollow Caves Bay. Reaching out eastwards gives yet more excellence: the massive walls of Mowing Word and Stackpole Head provide a bewildering array of challenges, whilst Mother Carey’s is the perfect Tenby-side experience. Further east still are the friendly slans of Beck’s Bay and Giltar. You’ll also find North Pembroke’s stunning, south-facing coastline, found close-by to the miniature ‘city’ of St David’s. The rock here is glorious; fine-grained, purple-red sandstone, fast-drying, and significantly more colourful than its limestone counterpart! The angles are more slabby, with a grade average to suit.

Rockfax Digital package April 2024 - Crags in italics have extra content and in bold italics are additional to the 2009 book content.

Porthclais, Porth-y-Ffynnon, Initiation Slabs, Craig Caerfai, Barrel Zawn, Carreg-y-Barcud

Flimston Bay, Crystal Slabs, Mosaic Wall, Mewsford, Crickmail PointTriple Overhang Buttress, Blockhouse Buttress, Space Buttress, Sitting Bull Buttress, The Castle, Rusty Walls, Misty Walls, Breakfast Zawn, Hollow Caves Bay, Saddle Head, Bosherston Head, Huntsman's Leap, Stennis Head, Stennis Ford, Newton Head, Chapel Point, Trevallen, St. Govan's, St. Govan's East

Broadhaven Beach, Mowing Word, Stackpole, Lydstep Cavern Bay, Mother Carey's, Beck's Bay, Penally Range

August 2009







Next Edition

Updated on the app version

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2 reviews for Pembroke (2009)

  1. Steve Crowe

    Alan James is passionate about Pembroke his attention to detail shines through. Mike Robertson has produced a stunning set of photo diagrams and his action photos make your palms sweat as you turn the pages.

    If you are not inspired by the front cover shot of Katie Dominey then just turn the page for a stunning shot of Tim Emmett. The guide is littered with great photography and each section is introduced with a stunning double page spread. The photo topos are brilliant too. The route selection has been expanded and I’d generally agree with the choices. For me the only omission is the area surrounding No Mans Zawn “A small zawn offering some of the best wall climbing in Pembroke which is a must for all competent climbers” UKC.

    I have spotted one typo Always the Sun has been up graded to E7 every where except the introduction to Stackpole. Although the old pegs can be backed up by wire it does make onsight a bit tougher so I do agree with the upgrade. I climbed Ghost Train the same day as Dave Birkett climbed Always the Sun. Now Dave would get the E7 tick and I would tick a mere E6!

    But this is all minor details, the guide is extensive enough for most visitors and yet compact enough to carry up the routes. I just hope that they have printed enough copies for the demand.

    Okay the vans packed and we are off to Pembroke, see you all there soon.

  2. Dominic Oughton, Dominic Oughton

    Page after page of full-colour photo-topos (mostly taken from the mid-Atlantic) help to guide the aspiring climber to their chosen target while numerous action shots serve to inspire. Above all it is the user-friendliness that really sets the new guide apart; so important in the ‘ab in and pull your ropes’ context of a sea-cliff. Excellent maps and detailed guidance on descents, tides and conditions will help to enable the safe and productive enjoyment of this climbing paradise.

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