Eridge Rocks – Update 2019 – New Climbing Restrictions

Further to a site meeting with the Reserves Manager of Sussex Wildlife Trust, the BMC have agreed to ask climbers not to climb or boulder on Yew Crack Buttress (Southern Sandstone Rockfax Guide Page 130 – 131) due to the increase in erosion. This covers climbs/boulder problems Yew Crack/The Leaf to Earthrise Surprise.

Earthrise is not covered by this restriction but if there is damage increase then there will, unfortunately, be no option but to add this to the restrictions also. The below sign should now be in place at the Buttress.

Eridge has become a hot spot for bordering in recent years, primarily due to some of the access issues faced at High Rocks. Eridge is notoriously sandy in places and excessive brushing with prohibited items like bouldering brushes have caused damage to the rocks in certain places. It’s vital that we (climbers) take action to ensure climbing at Eridge can continue. Ensure to follow the code of practice to the letter! Climbing at Eridge is a privilege and we need to ensure we can all continue to enjoy climbing and bouldering by protecting the rock.

Climbing at Eridge was once banned and has only been permitted since 1997 thanks to the Sussex Wildlife Trust and BMC’s access agreement.


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