There has been little new information about the potential access problems on Mallorca. One confirmed report we have is that Sector Solarium (pages 56 and 57 of the guide) has had some ‘no climbing’ signs added and there is now also a new fence discouraging climbing. However, this is the only report we have had where climbers have been restricted access and it may well not be connected with any of the new proposals since access to Puig de Garrafa always involved crossing fences.
The post below was made on the UKClimbing thread and this puts the current situation into some perspective.
badgerjockey – on 02:19 Wed 8 Jan
I would like to mention that I recently returned from a two week climbing trip to the island and didn’t come across anything which might indicate access problems or taxes/charges at the crags we visited. These were Gubia, El Fumat, La Creveta, Les Perxes, Puig de Garrafa, Calvia, Valdemossa, Cala Magraner and Tijuana. OK, we didn’t do DWS (winter!) and we didn’t visit La Reserva or Fraguel/Sa Comuna but we had an absolutely fantastic time with daily doses of world class climbing (the rock, not the climbers!) in stunning locations.
I love Mallorca and hope to be back on many occasions in the future but the rumours about charges are worrying and I would certainly have to consider other destinations if the government take the shortsighted step of imposing blanket charges island wide. It is lazy and sure to be counter productive for the government, landowners and climbers/cyclists alike.
For now though, Mallorca remains the best place I have been climbing and I would urge people to not abandon all hope so soon as we had a 100% trouble free and very memorable time this December. The vast majority of sport crags are trouble free and I cannot see how many could possibly be policed at all given their wild locations. It is easy to avoid those with apparent restrictions.
I would also recommend taking advantage of the amazing network of mountain refuges which are real hidden gems and another example of the Spanish governments failure to promote something with great potential but few tourists manage to find out about.
2 thoughts on “Mallorca Access Update”
As the Spanish magazine Desnivel reports ( http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/accesos/cierre-del-sector-solarium-en-garrafa ), the Solarium Sector of Puig Garrafa is being closed for climbing due to disputes with the land owner.
It’s asked of the climbers not to access the sector to avoid escalation of the conflict to the whole crag.
It’s also possible that the routes of Solarium will have their bolts removed to enforce the ban.
The article states that it’s certain that the bolts of solarium will be removed. Its also open if Puig de Graffa will be closed completely. It all depends on the courtesy of the land owner!! So what the local climbers ask in the article is that any climber pays maximum respect to the land owner, to not climb in solarium, and first and foremost to not leave the trails, leave trash and be behave well in general. This is very important for us visiting, but even more important for the locals, since its one of the few crags close to palma where the working public can go climbing after work.
en ex Mallorquin 🙂