North Wales Climbs

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North Wales is one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. The variety of crags, routes and styles is almost unmatched spanning the major mountain crags in Llanberis Pass, Cloggy,  Ogwen, Moelwyns and the Carneddau; to the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno.

The 2023 edition covers all these areas building on the successful 2013 edition with many extra routes and mostly new aerial crag photography throughout. All the maps have been improved and there is a completely new set of stunning action photographs.

North Wales Climbs spans the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno. As is normally the case with the selected Rockfax guidebooks, the choice of what to include is based as much on the crag it is on as the route itself. If we include a crag then we tend to include a good selection of routes on that crag.

Correction – The garden list on page 44 has some repeated routes in the HS category. Here is a corrected version.

 

Crags in italics are new since 2013

Slate Quarries
Bus Stop, Dali's Hole, California, Australia, Serengeti, Twll Mar, Vivian Quarry, Rainbow Slab, Plateau Slab

Llanberis Pass
Craig Ddu, Clogwyn y Grochan, Carreg Wastad, Dinas Cromlech, Scimitar Ridge, Clogwyn Gafr, Dinas Mot, Clogwyn y Ddysgl, Cyrn Las, Cwm Glas Bach

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu

Lliwedd and Gwynant
Lliwedd, Clogwyn y Wenallt, Clogwyn y Bustach

Ogwen
Tryfan, Glyder Fach, Gribin Facet, Cwm Cneifion, Cwm Idwal, Carnedd y Filiast

Carneddau
Pen yr Ole Wen, Craig Lloer, Carreg Mianog, Craig yr Ysfa, Craig yr Ogof, Lech Ddu

Tremadog
Castell Cidwm, Cwm Silyn (Craig yr Ogof), Craig y Gesail, Craig y Castell, Pant Ifan, Bwlch y Moch, Carreg Hyll Drem

Betws y Coed and the Moelwyns
The Moelwyns, Craig y Tonnau, Carreg Alltrem, Craig Rhiw Coch, Craig Dinas, Clogwyn Cyrau, Clogwyn yr Eryr

Gogarth
North Stack and Main Cliff, South Stack, Holyhead Mountain, The Range, Rhoscolyn, Fedw Fawr

Limestone
Castle Inn Quarry, Penmaen Head, Penmaenbach Quarry, Tramstation Crag, Upper Pen Trwyn, Lower Pen Trwyn, Castell y Gwynt, Hornby Crags

Mid-Wales
Simdde Ddu, Y Grisiau, Llechau Mawr, Barmouth, Craig Cywarch, Gist Ddu, Cadair Idris
Authors

,

Location

,

Bolt Fund

North Wales Bolt Fund

ISBN

978-1-873341-93-3

Rockfax Number

Fax65

2 reviews for North Wales Climbs

  1. Gordon Stainforth (verified owner)

    My revised review:

    This a beautifully produced book, covering most of the main areas very well, and I have perhaps never come across a guidebook in which I have been so in agreement with the grades and graded lists. But there are two glaring omissions. First, the mega classic crag of Cwm Silyn (with such three-star routes as Outside Edge, Dwm, and Crucible) is omitted. Worse: there is no section on the climbing history. Sadly, this is symptomatic of a shallow, philistine age that has no deeper interests, but is content with only the surface of things. From this point of view, the book lacks the respectful connoisseurship of a classic rock climbing guide. If it had not been for these two serious omissions, I would have given the book 5 stars for its visual flare and the enormous amount of care that has gone into its design and production.

    • Alan James – Rockfax

      Hi Gordon

      Cwm Silyn was omitted on the advice of local guides due to the vast amount of unstable rock left after the major rock fall a few years ago. My understanding is that the situation is quite serious. Outside Edge is still possible but the main slab routes aren’t.

      As for history – well the omission is hardly new for this book for us. We took a decision years ago to let history take its place in beautiful history books. We make guidebooks to inform what is there to climb. That has always been our style.

      Thanks for your other comments.

      Alan

  2. Florence (verified owner)

    Overall a great guide book. Excellent selection of starred routes, clear full colour topos, clear descriptions.
    Only thing missing is route lengths. Length of individual pitches is given, but no overall length, this can be derived by adding pitch lengths where they are given, but single pitch routes are not given at all.
    Generally though, thank you for this excellent guide book.

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