DANCING LEDGE


Dancing Ledge is one of the most important areas at Swanage for sport climbers. The quality and variety of routes is good and virtually all are fully bolted with solid resin staples. The quarry routes are mostly very solid and friendly outings, whilst the sea-level cave routes are intimidating, often committing and strenuous, though the rock and atmosphere are excellent. The picturesque setting makes this a great summer spot for picnicking and swimming.

Routes

1 dws route (4c)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Quarry - Left
The left side of The Quarry is split into two walls of compact, steep rock that see quite a lot of...
13
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

sheltered
The Quarry - Centre
This section of the quarried wall is open, well drained and offers up a good array of mid-grade...
17
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

sheltered
The Quarry - Right
The overhang strewn right-hand side of the quarry has a number of excellent and powerful routes, a...
21
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Graveyard Area
Hidden away under the west end of the quarry are two very eerie caves containing layers of tiered...
8
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Abseil
Bust Ya' Boiler Area
This steep section of roofs gives some great traverse pitches which can be climbed at any tide...
9
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Abseil
Hieronymous GBH Area
The next set of routes is on the face to the east of the quarry. The first few can be reached from...
9
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Mexican Wave Area
The clutch of climbs on the Mexican Wave offer a fine venue for muscle junkies who like a bit of...
7
Sport
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

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