BLACKNOR SOUTH


Blacknor South has some magnificent wall pitches on delicate flowstone, plus a number of well frequented lower-grade routes.

Conditions
Some of Blacknor South faces southwest and is a good late-morning sun venues. There is a little seepage by The Oldest Profession on the Medusa Falls Area although it is usually dry in the summer. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Access
The main access problems here are to do with parking. Please follow the parking instructions described below, this will avoid the problems that have been created in the past by climbers parking randomly in the Weston Estate. Only one short section of the Blacknor Cliffs has a restriction due to nesting birds; no climbing from March 1st to July 31st.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Sharbutts Quarry
The first section of Blacknor South might be a bit short, but the climbs are on good rock, well...
11
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

8 mins

Sacred Angel Area
A fine wall of vertical rock, suited to those with a technical bent and strong fingers. Some of the...
18
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

12 mins

Medusa Falls Area
A superb wall with stunning flowstone that is also slightly less exposed to the weather than the...
24
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

12 mins

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