GANDALF


This near-roadside cliff is a great destination for Lofoten climbers, offering several classic routes at amenable grades. The routes are quite long - up to four pitches - the approach only takes a few minutes and there is an easy walk-off. Generally the rock is good, though the occasional loose block or flake needs care. The accessibility and the grade spread, plus the sunny aspect, mean that the cliff is popular and queues are not unheard of - though at least you can check your route before leaving the road!
For something a little more taxing, the nearby Silmarillion Wall should be checked out, with its hard aid routes and steep free climbs.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Live Aid
On the left-hand side of the face the crag disappears into a gloomy gully that only gets the sun...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Gandalf Routes
The fine broad buttress that makes up the main bulk of the cliff is home to many of its best...
12
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Guns 'n' Roses
The right-hand side of the face swings round to form a steep wall. The classic of Guns 'n' Roses is...
9
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Silmarillion Wall
The rightward extension of the Gandalf wall forms a fine tall buttress of excellent orange granite....
4
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
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