Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide; easy accessibility, great outward views, a good spread of grades, quality rock and some excellent lines - it isn't surprising that many folks make their first contact with Lofoten rock here. The routes are multi-pitch but generally the stances are good, as is the protection, hence the place is popular for instruction. Towering above is peak of Sørfjellet which throws a pillar down towards the sea. The south face of this is known as Maurpillaren (Ants' Pillar) - a tall steep slab rising above a cracked base. There are a few isolated routes on the northern side of the pillar, including the Lofoten's hardest roof crack Minnerisset, 9-. Also covered in this section is the single pitch crag Svenskaveggan with its mixture of sport and trad routes.


26 trad routes (N4...N9-)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Northern Buttresses
As the Henningsvær road heads round the bend from Røyvika it passes a series of ribs and buttress...
Afternoon sun

0 mins

(Pillar of the Ants) This is the tall slabby pillar rising above a lower face seamed with cracks,...
Sun to mid-afternoon

20 mins

West Face
A good places for starters as there is a classic easy route on the West Face and two well-protected...
Sun from mid-morning

5 mins

South Face
A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end...
Sun to mid-afternoon

5 mins

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  • Latest Comments


    "Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1..." 31/Jul top50

    Lys og skygge
    "I felt the first pitch more delicate. Take care in the crux, not every hold is v..." 29/May top50

    Applecake Arete
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Pianohandler Lunds rute
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Ant Line
    "You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of th..." 10/Jul

    "P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The r..." 17/Jul top50

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