PIANOKRAKKEN


Pianokrakken (the Piano Stool) is one of the most popular cliffs in the guide; easy accessibility, great outward views, a good spread of grades, quality rock and some excellent lines - it isn't surprising that many folks make their first contact with Lofoten rock here. The routes are multi-pitch but generally the stances are good, as is the protection, hence the place is popular for instruction.
Towering above is peak of Sørfjellet which throws a pillar down towards the sea. The south face of this is known as Maurpillaren (Ants' Pillar) - a tall steep slab rising above a cracked base. There are a few scattered routes to the north of the pillar, including the desperately hard crack of Minnerisset (9-).
Also covered in this section is the single pitch crag Svenskeveggen with its mixture of sport and trad routes - see page 106 for full details.

Routes

1 dws route (N4)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Sørfjellet
As the Henningsvær road heads round the bend from Rørvika it passes a series of ribs and buttresses...
4
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

10 mins

Maurpillaren
(Ant's Pillar) This is the tall slabby pillar rising above a lower face seamed with cracks, up and...
5
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

15 mins

West Face
A good places for starters as there is a classic easy route plus a few other interesting offerings....
10
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
South Face
A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end...
11
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Svenskeveggen
This small steep roadside crag has some bolted routes and trad crack climbs and is good for a short...
12
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

2 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For PIANOKRAKKEN

    Frøken Sverige
    "Added a route up the blunt rib to the left of Frøken Sverige: "Ångermanland..." 23/Jun

    Djupfjord sprickan
    "1 Star in the guidebook and the information that it is an off width, means just ..." 14/Jul top50

    Pizzatyven
    "Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1..." 31/Jul top50

    Lys og skygge
    "I felt the first pitch more delicate. Take care in the crux, not every hold is v..." 29/May top50

    Applecake Arete
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Pianohandler Lunds rute
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Ant Line
    "You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of th..." 10/Jul

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