SVOLVÆR


High above north Lofoten's main town, is the Svolværgeita (usually known simply as 'The Goat', with the two giant blocks of the horns balanced on its crest and, if you visit Lofoten and you consider yourself any kind of climber, at least one ascent of The Goat is mandatory! The first ascent of The Goat in 1910 was a seminal point in the history of Norwegian climbing. In a two week period the same team made the first ascent of Stetind on the mainland (after sailing up the fjord to reach it), as well as Trakta, and Store Klokktinden on Lofoten. It has long been traditional to jump the gap between the horns, though fortunately this has never actually been compulsory! Sadly in the winter of 2006/7 a chunk of the inner edge the Lillehorn (the smaller of the two horns) fell away, meaning that the jump is now wider and the landing platform is smaller. The jump is no longer recommended and the local guides now decline to take clients there.

Routes

Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Kirkegårdsrisset
In the huge boulderfield that lies between the church and The Goat is a compelling crackline,...
1
Winter
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Blåtinden
Two routes to the north of Svolværgeita.
2
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

60 mins

Windy
Svolværgeita
High above north Lofoten's main town, is the Svolværgeita (usually known simply as 'The Goat', with...
7
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

40 mins

Skråpillaren
To the east of the Svolværgeita, towards the Svolvær Airport, several alpine-like cliffs including...
1
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
Råna
This is the right-hand of the faces rising above the E10, 2km east of the Svolværgeita. The route...
1
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

20 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For SVOLVÆR

    Highway to Heaven
    "Changed from N6+ ** to N7 **, no votes" 27/May

    Forsida
    "Nice and easy, but so many people. My god, better to do it at midnight." 29/May top50

    Rapellruta
    "A very nice single pitch, one of the nicest around with great incut holds and ex..." 17/Jul

    Forsida
    "Climbed it in quite wet and cold conditions but still good fun. Didn't find p5 h..." 28/Jun top50

    Forsida
    "Climbed the route after some rain and a wet approach, but the rock wasn't too we..." 28/Jul top50

    Forsida
    "Climbing across the horns wasn't too bad, but thought the ab off must have been ..." 06/Jul top50

    Baksida
    "Makes a nice combination with Forsida. Up the Baksida - jump, abseil down and ru..." 12/Mar

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