Perhaps the archetypal Northumbrian crag, Bowden Doors has everything; over 150 routes right across the grade spectrum, wonderful rock, easy accessibility, a great outlook, the afternoon sun and loads of bouldering. With all this it is hardly surprising that the place gets popular; if you find it a bit busy then it is always worth heading further along the crag to find a more peaceful spot.
Access - Although the rock is superb quality sandstone, it is easily damaged by ropes running over the edge. If you must top-rope here, PLEASE do your utmost to protect the rock by ensuring that your belay rope is draped well over the edge of the crag and well padded by a rucksack or similar. The same applies to leaders, winching multiple seconds up routes.
The southern end of the crag and the normal approach are not on Access Land. The farmer has made the very reasonable request that people don't park in front of the gate to the field, and that they don't bring any dogs with them - please respect his wishes.
Routes
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108 trad routes (M...E6) 18 boulder problems (V1...V11) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |         | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| The Scoops The far left-hand end of Bowden Doors sees less traffic than most of the rest of the cliff, though... |
13 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 314 |
| The Wave A magnificent feature, a wide wall of impeccable rock topped off by a rolling wave of rippled... |
17 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 315 |
| Barbarian A couple of lesser buttresses towards the left-hand end of the cliff, though with a smattering of... |
12 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 316 |
| Banana Wall and Tiger Wall These two adjacent faces have a great set of routes that have climbing that is a bit slabbier than... |
15 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 317 |
| Lorraine and Castle Crack A couple of fine buttresses with a selection of worthwhile climbs and a couple of real Bowden... |
13 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 318 |
| Castle Wall and Scorpion The small bulbous buttress under the wall and the wider face to the right has some interesting... |
14 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 319 |
| Leaning Grooves and Canada Crack The central section of the cliff has many fine climbs up interesting features and on good rock. All... |
14 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 4 mins |
Windy | 320 |
| The Overhanging Crack The section of rock to the left of the Main Wall is less extensive and less impressive. Despite... |
7 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Level 5 mins |
Windy | 321 |
| Main Wall The first section of the crag reached from the road consists of a couple of steep walls that... |
21 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 3 mins |
Windy | 322 |
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