Lower Sharpnose has some of the best single pitch sea cliff climbs in Britain. The rock formations are unique and spectacular, consisting of three huge fins of rock thrusting out into the ocean and only a few metres thick for most of their length. Just walking around the base of the fins is inspiring enough but once on the routes you will be absorbed by some superb, intricate and sustained climbing which is mainly in the higher grades. The rock is weird bubbly grey stuff (it is actually sandstone but describing it as such might give people the wrong impression since it isnít like any other sandstone you will have seen). Sometimes it is a bit sandy and there are quite a few rounded holds. The faces are crossed by some attractive quartz bands which offer some respite in the form of more positive holds, and many deep breaks which offer the sanctuary of gear. Leaving a break to gain the next one is often the basis of the crux section. Several of the routes use the breaks to gain distant sections of the face and there are, or course, a few classic traverse lines.
36 trad routes (HVS...E8)|
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
|Buttress (click for routes)||No. of Routes||Route Type||Sunshine
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