LOWER SHARPNOSE


Lower Sharpnose has some of the best single pitch sea cliff climbs in Britain. The rock formations are unique and spectacular, consisting of three huge fins of rock thrusting out into the ocean and only a few metres thick for most of their length. Just walking around the base of the fins is inspiring enough but once on the routes you will be absorbed by some superb, intricate and sustained climbing which is mainly in the higher grades. The rock is weird bubbly grey stuff (it is actually sandstone but describing it as such might give people the wrong impression since it isnít like any other sandstone you will have seen). Sometimes it is a bit sandy and there are quite a few rounded holds. The faces are crossed by some attractive quartz bands which offer some respite in the form of more positive holds, and many deep breaks which offer the sanctuary of gear. Leaving a break to gain the next one is often the basis of the crux section. Several of the routes use the breaks to gain distant sections of the face and there are, or course, a few classic traverse lines.

Routes

36 trad routes (HVS...E8)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
_
-
-
^
 
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
North Fin
The South Face of the North Fin gives the most accessible climbing at Sharpnose. Almost all the...
13
Trad
Lots of sun!
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Middle Fin - North Face
This is the cold north-facing wall. The main attractions are the long corners of Lunakod and...
10
Trad
No sun
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
Middle Fin - South Face
The magnificent south wall of the middle fin is one of the most impressive faces in Britain. The...
12
Trad
Lots of sun!
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
South Fin
The only climbing worth mentioning in this fin is north-facing and doesn't get much sun. The huge...
1
Trad
 
Up and down

35 mins

Tidal
What do these symbols mean?
  • Latest Comments

    For LOWER SHARPNOSE

    Break On Through
    "Beautiful route of the very highest quality. Miles off E4, the holds are mas..." 20/Apr top50

    Wraith
    "great route but another soft tick, more like E3 than E5" 27/Feb top50

    Last Laugh
    "Felt a bit bold after the (tough) crux move" 29/Oct top50

    The Devonian
    "Fingery & hard low down, technical & balancey & fingery high up. Top..." 04/Jul

    Wraith
    "Very good climbing, but is this really harder than steady E4? Isn't it about ti..." 21/Jun top50

    Coronary Country
    "The lower peg looks reasonable, but needs to be tied off (easy on lead). The sec..." 30/May top50

    Search for comments