Lower Sharpnose has some of the best single pitch sea cliff climbs in Britain. The rock formations are unique and spectacular, consisting of three huge fins of rock thrusting out into the ocean and only a few metres thick for most of their length. Just walking around the base of the fins is inspiring enough but once on the routes you will be absorbed by some superb, intricate and sustained climbing which is mainly in the higher grades. The rock is weird bubbly grey stuff (it is actually sandstone but describing it as such might give people the wrong impression since it isnít like any other sandstone you will have seen). Sometimes it is a bit sandy and there are quite a few rounded holds. The faces are crossed by some attractive quartz bands which offer some respite in the form of more positive holds, and many deep breaks which offer the sanctuary of gear. Leaving a break to gain the next one is often the basis of the crux section. Several of the routes use the breaks to gain distant sections of the face and there are, or course, a few classic traverse lines.


36 trad routes (HVS...E8)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
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Approach walk Other
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  • Latest Comments


    Break On Through
    "Beautiful route of the very highest quality. Miles off E4, the holds are mas..." 20/Apr top50

    "great route but another soft tick, more like E3 than E5" 27/Feb

    Last Laugh
    "Felt a bit bold after the (tough) crux move" 29/Oct

    The Devonian
    "Fingery & hard low down, technical & balancey & fingery high up. Top..." 04/Jul

    "Very good climbing, but is this really harder than steady E4? Isn't it about ti..." 21/Jun

    Coronary Country
    "The lower peg looks reasonable, but needs to be tied off (easy on lead). The sec..." 30/May

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