Opinions on Huntsman's Leap vary from the "best crag in the World" to "a grotty hole in the ground", but they rarely venture into the "quite good" category - you will either love it or you will hate it. For those to whom it does appeal, the experience of climbing in this dramatic location is unforgettable and once you have started tackling the routes, you will continually be looking for the next one to tackle as you creep up the grade ladder. Most people will make their first acquaintance with the slabbier routes on the East Wall where the rock isn't quite as good, but the best lines are well-cleaned and popular. Routes like Shape Up (E1 and the easiest exit), Beast from the Undergrowth (E2), Strap-Up (E3) and Quiet Waters (E2) are all top-notch challenges. Further seaward is the well-named Monster Face with its spooky routes at the narrowest section of the Leap - Mythical Monster (E3) and The Honey Monster (E2) being the classics here. The true connoisseur though will spend most of their time on the West Wall since this is where the best of the Leap's treasures lie. The entry level is quite tough though - Bloody Sunday, an E4 for ambitious E3 leaders. After that the tick list opens up with virtually every route being a classic.
Routes
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47 trad routes (E1...E8) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| West Wall The landward end of the pink West (right looking out) Wall contains some of the most accessible and... |
25 | Trad |
No sun |
Level 8 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Range East - usually closed mid-week | 124 |
| East Wall Most people's first climbs in the Leap are on the landward end of the East (left looking out) Wall... |
22 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Level 10 mins |
Abseil Tidal Windy Range East - usually closed mid-week | 130 |
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