KILNSEY


A magnificent steep crag with many superb routes. Much of the climbing is in the higher grades but there are a few worthy routes at about E1 level. Above that the quantity and quality increases reaching a peak with the magnificent Northern Lights - 9a. The popular climbing is on the sport routes although there are plenty of great trad routes as well. The crag faces east and receives the sun in the morning which can make it a handy hot summer venue.

Routes

27 trad routes (E2...E7)
79 sport routes (3...9a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
South Face
This is the side of the crag facing the village of Kilnsey. To the left of South Buttress capped by...
6
Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

2 mins

-
Directissima Area
The huge umbella of Kilnseys main overhang shelters some of Yorkshires great pitches. The lower...
30
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
262
The Bulge Area
The dominating bulge of Ecstacy and the corner of Balas are the main features of this wall. In...
13
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
sheltered
264
Dihedral Wall Area
The distinct overlap of Dihedral Wall itself and the wall to its right provide for most tastes,...
15
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
sheltered
265
Biological Need Area
The subtly-featured compact grey rock of the right-hand walls provide some extremely sustained and...
14
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

1 min

Seepage
sheltered
266
Central Wall
The towering vertical wall of magnificent grey and white streaked limestone is broken only by some...
4
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

Seepage
sheltered
267
North Buttress
The leaning mass of Kilnseys North Buttress is one of the UKs most impressive crags. The...
10
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
268
Grooved Arete Area
The final buttress at Kilnsey is often overlooked in favour of its better known near neighbours....
14
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

2 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
270
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  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Last Action Hero
    "Great technical route with 2 hard clips - fely stern for the grade." 27/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

    The Directissima
    "If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off." 16/Sep top50

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