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KILNSEY

A magnificent steep crag with many superb routes. Much of the climbing is in the higher grades but there are a few worthy routes at about E1 level. Above that the quantity and quality increases reaching a peak with the magnificent Northern Lights - 9a. The popular climbing is on the sport routes although there are plenty of great trad routes as well. The crag faces east and receives the sun in the morning which can make it a handy hot summer venue.

Routes

27 trad routes (E2...E7) 79 sport routes (3...9a) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
South Face This is the side of the crag facing the village of Kilnsey. To the left of South Buttress capped by...	6	Sport	Sun to mid-afternoon	Uphill 2 mins	Windy	-
Directissima Area The huge umbella of Kilnseys main overhang shelters some of Yorkshires great pitches. The lower...	30	Trad and Sport	Morning sun	Uphill 1 min	Seepage Dry in the Rain	262
The Bulge Area The dominating bulge of Ecstacy and the corner of Balas are the main features of this wall. In...	13	Sport	Morning sun	Uphill 1 min	Seepage	264
Dihedral Wall Area The distinct overlap of Dihedral Wall itself and the wall to its right provide for most tastes,...	15	Trad and Sport	Morning sun	Uphill 1 min	Seepage	265
Biological Need Area The subtly-featured compact grey rock of the right-hand walls provide some extremely sustained and...	14	Sport	Morning sun	Uphill 1 min	Seepage	266
Central Wall The towering vertical wall of magnificent grey and white streaked limestone is broken only by some...	4	Trad	Morning sun	Uphill 2 mins	Seepage	267
North Buttress The leaning mass of Kilnsey’s North Buttress is one of the UK’s most impressive crags. The...	10	Sport	Morning sun	Uphill 2 mins	Seepage Dry in the Rain	268
Grooved Arete Area The final buttress at Kilnsey is often overlooked in favour of its better known near neighbours....	14	Sport	Morning sun	Uphill 2 mins	Seepage Dry in the Rain	270
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KILNSEY

Routes

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