SYMPLEGADES AREA


Above the small village of Myrties is a long line of cliffs that have generally been ignored with a few minor exceptions, most notably the intriguing little canyon of Symplegades. Running leftwards from the canyon are other bits of developed rock with some worthwhile climbs if you want some peace and quiet.

Conditions
The crags on the left get the sun earlier than the cliffs above Massouri which makes them a fair bet on cold winter days. Symplegades has walls which face each other so there is nearly always sun and shade available - often a cool breeze blows through the canyon. Generally the routes dry quickly and there isn't much too much seepage except after heavy rain. It can be windy up here.

Approach
Drive towards Pothia and at the top of the Myrties bends turn left (towards Kamari). Keep an eye out for painted arrows/words pointing "to climbing routes". The second of these is a left turn up a steep lane which rises then turns sharp left - the best place for parking cars, though there isn't a lot of room. Scooterist can continue upwards, taking a right fork and round some bends to parking by a wire gate. DON'T BLOCK any access routes. Go through the gate and up the track to a higher house, through a gate on the left then up a good path towards the canyon. For Hump Piste/Ouriana keep an eye out for a horizontal path that heads into the valley in front of you - the crags are reached by a short scramble up left or right after 5 mins. For Symplegades follow the main path that zigzags up into the canyon above and right.

Routes

1 winter route (6b)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Hump Piste
A set of climbs developed in 2015 on very sharp rock. They are in a pleasant setting, sheltered...
17
Sport
No sun
Uphill

25 mins

sheltered
Ourania
An imposing wide wall and a steep cave that between them don't see much action despite some decent...
28
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Windy
Symplegades - West Wall
An interesting set of walls on either side of a narrow canyon. The area has great views of...
21
Sport
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Windy
Symplegades - East Wall
An interesting set of walls on either side of a narrow canyon. The area has great views of...
14
Sport
Morning sun
Uphill

12 mins

Seepage
Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For SYMPLEGADES AREA

    Tufa's story
    "a jam at its grade" 12/Dec

    Katsaplias
    "Probably the easiest of the 6c+s on this wall but very good moves." 19/Oct

    Ermix
    "This is a great 7a with an interesting and intricate crux sequence only marred b..." 19/Oct

    Climber's Nest
    "Found the bolts to be ok. Ropedrag." 04/Oct

    Bubuki
    ""Spoilt by poorly placed lower off"?! That last move and forced traver..." 29/Sep

    Climber's Nest
    "Now has a very good extension at 6b+" 09/Jun

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