As you drive up and down the coastline, there is one impressive bit of rock which stands high above all the other impressive bits of rock, the 1400m high Puig Campana above the village of Finestrat. Along with the Peñon d'Ifach, this mountain has been a focus of climbing in the Costa Blanca since the 1960s. However owing to the long approach walks, and the existence of other significantly more accessible crags, Puig Campana hasn't been developed nearly as much as it deserves. Despite this it is still home to some superb and important routes, which will provide many memorable days of climbing for those into long traditionally protected climbs. The actual climbing is seldom hard, except on the newer routes. The three main classics on the south face, Espolón Central, Diedro Gallego and Diedro Magicos, and El Diamante plus Espolón Finestrat on the Aguja Encantada, are the only routes on which you are likely to have company.
Routes
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27 sport routes (4+...7b+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Aguja Encantada The West Face of Puig Campana is complex area with many pinnacles and walls. By far the most... |
12 | Trad and Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 203 |
| Espolón Central One of the best-known rock-features of the Costa Blanca is the long slender ridge of Espolón... |
4 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 205 |
| Vía Julia Pillar The route Espolón Central avoids much of the steep lower section of the pillar. This is tackled by... |
8 | Trad and Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 207 |
| Diedros Mágicos Area The right-hand side of the huge south face contains the classic long groove of Magic Corners and... |
9 | Trad and Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 208 |
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