DOVESTONE TOR


Dovestone Tor is the most significant of a series of outcrops overlooking the flooded Derwent valley. It is well worth a visit if you want to escape the crowds. Having said that, nice summer weekends can be surprisingly busy up here nowadays. The cliff is a long west-facing wall riddled with many circular holes. The rock can be dirty, especially after rain, but the outlook is as fine as any cliff in the Peak and sunny afternoons spent here can be enthralling with superb views out into the wilderness of Bleaklow. Developments in the 1990s increased the number of routes listed here markedly, though many of the climbs done at this time will have been climbed in the past but were never recorded.

Routes

6 boulder problem (Diff)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Back Tor
To the north of Dovestone Tor, the flagged path rises steadily up toward the conspicuous trig point...
15
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins

Windy
Titania Area
The left side of the crag has a collection of shorter climbs. Although none of these are...
24
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins

Windy
The Great Buttress
A well-named piece of rock - the main feature of the crag. The long routes here mostly provide...
22
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins

Windy
Gargoyle Buttress Area
Gargoyle Buttress features a slab on its left, a crenellated tower in the centre, and a walled-in...
23
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins

Windy
Upper Buttresses
Above and right of the main edge is a smaller cliff of nice quality rock. This has a maximum height...
33
Trad
Sun and shade
Uphill

40 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

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