The impressive boulder-choked valley that restrains the river Brugent for much of its length between the town of La Riba and the perfectly proportioned hamlet of La Farena, is lined with limestone cliffs. The winding single track road that hugs the river’s edge gives easy access to many of the crags which have been developed along the valley, but supreme amongst these is the formation of Penya Roja. The Penya Roja contains the earliest routes of the region being easily accessed and offering what must have been an irresistible challenge to earlier pioneers. Today the four main sectors on the Penya, and its flanking sister crag of Xina, give the present day sport climber a choice of over a hundred routes of up to 4 pitches. There is something for every climber here except for those operating in the highest grades. Indeed for those wanting 5s, 6s and 7s you could do worse than spend a week’s holiday here alone. Many visiting climbers from outside Spain have been reluctant to try La Riba since it was wrongly credited by a French selected guide as being located in an industrial setting. The town of La Riba itself is home to some industrial complexes but is a good distance from the actual crags.
Routes
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69 sport routes (4+...7c+) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Pedestal You may be itching to launch yourself at the towering buttress of Directa but it is worth stopping... |
12 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 5 mins |
Windy | 144 |
| La Directa The impressive orange towering buttress of La Directa dominates the Brugent Valley as you approach... |
11 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 8 mins |
Windy | 146 |
| Les Plaques Just to the right of Sector La Directa is a wonderful grey angled slab with a plaque on its lower... |
23 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 8 mins |
Windy | 148 |
| Sense Nom This sector is home to a trio of long fine pitches. |
8 | Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 10 mins |
Windy | 150 |
| Xina Set further up the hillside from the Penya Roja, and not visible from the car park, Xina keeps its... |
15 | Sport |
Sun to mid-afternoon |
Uphill 15 mins |
Dry in the Rain Windy | 152 |
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