Waterfall Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The Grotto  |  Deliverance Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
8 mins
Uphill
Seepage

The buttress just to the right of the waterfall has some good rock and a few esoteric sport lines plus a couple of quality traditional routes. On the right-hand side of the buttress is the deep chimney of Darkness - more of a caving expedition than a climb. Much of this section never sees the sun and around Darkness the rock is often damp and green. Further left the walls are cleaner.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alien Water Kiss
Move up a groove past a peg to a horizontal break. Pull over the overhang into a corner and gain the second horizontal break....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
2
Meggazones
FA. Chris Sowden, Martin Berzins 5.7.1986
 
2 Stars
E4 6a 1)
3
Darkness Beckons
Follow Alien Water Kiss for a few metres and then traverse right to gain the first horizontal break. Go slightly right and up...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
4
Slapstick
A short bolted line just right of The Darkness Beckons.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c
5
Who's For Tea
Follow the bulges on the shallow left-hand arete of the wall.
 
Reachy
Technical
7a+
6
In The Red
The very hard yellow stained groove in the centre of the wall to a lower-off on the ledge.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
7
Crash Test Dummy
A series of difficult manoeuvres up the steep wall right of the yellow-stained groove. Lower-off on the ledge.
 
Reachy
Technical
7a+
8
Moulin Rouge
Belay at the middle lower-off above the lower wall - Green Carpet provides the best start. Move up to a high bolt and continue...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
9
Green Carpet
When dry, it gives a reasonable preamble to Shadowlands on the upper wall. The line goes rightwards before moving up through...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
10
Shadowlands
A good trad continuation to Green Carpet.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
11
The Twilight Zone
The bolted line just left of Darkness via a steep wall and overhang to a lower-off in the chimney.
 
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
12
Cabaret
A traverse of the upper break - exposed. Start at a tree reached by scrambling up the ridge over the hole/waterfall. 1) 5b,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For GORDALE

    Wise Crack
    "Changed from 5c * to E3 5c *, no votes" 19/Nov

    Masochism Tango
    "This was the first route John and I did together. 1986 NOT 1988" 26/Nov

    Face Route
    "You want to move right a bit from the peg, which makes it about 6a." 03/Nov top50

    Cave Eliminate
    "Some harsh comments! Easily worth 2 stars being a good sustained route on great ..." 08/Jul

    Face Route
    "My mate says that the fixed gear is in a poor state now and then peg on the top ..." 24/Jun top50

    Supercool
    "Totally Awesome!" 25/Jun

    Nothing Ever Lasts Forever
    "A decent route, the fun is packed into the last two bulges. Worth doing." 08/May

    Revitalised
    "Matt Troilett got the fa of this with mick" 30/Jan

    Deliverance
    "The crux is more technical than powerful. If you use the right holds in the righ..." 19/Sep

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