King of Fools Area

Adjacent Areas
< Mental Transition Area  |  Dangermouse Area >

Trad
Lots of sun!
17 mins
Uphill
Windy

The major feature of this area is the barrel-shaped wall of immaculate rock on the left. To its right is a tall roof-capped buttress of well-featured rock and a wall dominated by a large bulging overhang on its right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Condessa
The hand-sized crack passing the large yew tree on its left.
2 user comments
 HVS
2
Friction Factor
Good climbing up the smooth grey wall, passing a peg.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
3
Hard Fought
The thin left-hand crack is a little vegetated but the climbing is worthwhile.
2 user comments
 E2
4
Last Fandango
An enjoyable route following the thin finger-crack right of Hard Fought, with a steep finish up a layback flake.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
5
Wafer Way
A good route up the crack to a small roof which is climbed on the right, close to a large yew tree.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
6
Shasavaan
A poor route up the broken crack to a small tree.
2 user comments
 
Loose
E1
7
King of Fools
Start up Basket Case and then traverse left above the bulge, before making an exciting pull around the sharp arete into the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
8
Mainstay
Start up Basket Case and pull up slightly leftwards to reach twin flake-cracks.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
9
Basket Case
Climb direct up the V-groove in the grey wall. Care is needed with some loose blocks at the top of the groove.
2 user comments
 
Loose
E3
10
Stress Test
A powerful start up the bulging wall, past two pegs, reaches twin flakes above.
2 user comments
 
Strong
E4
11
The Soft Machine
The steep thin crack is well protected by a peg and two threads. Lower off the whitebeam tree.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
12
Vicious Circles
Boulder up to the first bolt and then make a difficult blind move rightwards to a second bolt. Pull up to a ledge and finish...
2 user comments
 
Strong
E5
13
Ornamental Art Mark 2
A serious and poorly-protected start on loose rock. Above the bulging start it follows the groove and is both easier and safer.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5
14
Origami Today
An eliminate direct to the crack in the rounded arete, after a slightly loose start protected by a bolt and thread.
2 user comments
 
Technical
E4
15
Poison Letter
A difficult start, that is hard to protect, gains good holds at the base of the shallow groove. Technical moves up this lead to...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
16
Bagpus
A strong test of nerves. Boldly bridge up the blue/grey groove to reach some wires at half height. Easier but still technical...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
17
Baron Greenback
Boldly climb the smooth wall to reach a 'thank god' peg at half height, then finish direct. Lower-off on the left.
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6
18
Storm Rider
Follow thin cracks in the wall left of the large ash tree.
2 user comments
 E3
19
Fraction Fictor
A super thin and technical exercise just right of Friction Factor.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a
20
Foolish Pride
A powerful direct start to King of Fools past a bolt, on poor rock.
 
Technical
Strong
Loose
E4
  • Latest Comments

    For PINFOLD

    Through the Grapevine
    "Now has new lower off. R.McConnell" 16/Jun

    Killer Gorilla
    "Just for info, I did this free the same day as I did Planet Clare. I gave it 7b+..." 04/Feb

    Atmospheres
    "Generally ok for grade. Pegs/tat in a bad way! Would trust them with a barge pol..." 06/Sep

    Killer Gorilla
    "Hey I wonder what this would go free at..." 04/Sep

    I Feel Like a Wog
    "Had a right struggle on this at the weekend the 7b+ to the left felt easier, I'd..." 25/May

    Obelisks Fly High
    "Well worth doing" 16/May

    Toccata
    "I would agree with that" 28/Sep top50

    Marnie
    "totaly agree with above comment, there arnt loads of holds!! small gear only." 18/Sep

    Atlantic Traveller
    "Another great route, nice climbing and good gear" 30/Aug top50

    Mitsuki Groove
    "Felt more like VS 5a, bomber small wires and only one tricky move" 16/Aug

    Killer Gorilla
    "Start now done free making the route about 7c+" 29/May

    Alchemy
    "If you're good (and fast) with small wires you can get some decent gear in for t..." 21/May

    Baby Frogs with Dirty Little Lips
    "Big hold fell off the crux when I was on it (fat lummox). Still doable but harde..." 15/Feb

    Brain Box
    "Gary, sorry for misrepresenting your route I used the tree when I climbed the ..." 01/Sep

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