Pembroke

Most of the routes in this section of the database are taken from the 2009 Pembroke Rockfax and the page numbers refer to that guidebook. Some of the crags are DWS crags and they appear in the book Deep Water.

Routes

673 trad routes (D...E9)
141 dws routes (HVS...8a)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Porth-Clais
The twin-crag setup of Porth-Clais is an inviting spot, with the two compact...
13
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Porth-y-Ffynnon
Some 500m east of the cliffs of Porth-Clais are the excellent paired slabs of...
11
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Initiation Slabs
The Initiation Slabs are typical North Pembroke - surrounded by other craglets...
10
--__
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Craig Caerfai
Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock...
14
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Caerbwdi Bay (Barrel Zawn)
Caerbwdi Bay is situated just to the west of the popular Carreg-y-Barcud. There...
18
--^-
DWS
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

Sheltered
Carreg-y-Barcud
Carreg-y-Barcud is undoubtedly North Pembrokeís finest sheet of sandstone; its...
46
--^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Flimston Bay
Flimston Bay contains the best variety of easy routes in the whole of Pembroke....
7
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

 
Mewsford
Mewsford is the best cliff at this end of Range East. There are loads of...
14
__--
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

40 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Crickmail Point
The south-facing aspect of Crickmailís compact exposed walls provide the...
9
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

35 mins

 
Triple Overhang
This fine, outstanding buttress (in every sense of the word) is a delight, and...
4
_--_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Blockhouse to Sitting Bull
Between the jutting headland of the Castle, and the prow of Triple Overhang,...
13
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
The Castle
This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock....
29
---^
Trad
Morning sun
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Rusty Walls
A rugged west-facing slab suspended above a booming zawn, with one of...
12
__--
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

18 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Misty Walls
Which came first, the route names, or the crag name? Whatever way it happened...
12
-_--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

18 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Breakfast Zawn
Breakfast Zawn is a delightful and shapely zawn, found tucked away in the...
6
__--
DWS
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

Tidal
Hollow Caves Bay
This large bay has the huge huge square inlet of Box Zawn with its set of...
23
_-^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Sheltered
Saddle Head
Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it...
21
---_
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

15 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Bosherston Head
Bosherston Head is the broad headland between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head....
43
_-^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

12 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Huntsman's Leap
Opinions on Huntsman's Leap vary from the "best crag in the World" to "a grotty...
47
__-^
Trad
No sun
Level

8 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Stennis Head
In between the deep inlets of Stennis Ford and Huntsmans leap is the fine...
48
-^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

 
Stennis Ford
This impressive zawn is just a 5 minute walk west along the coast path from St...
27
---^
Trad
Morning sun
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Newton Head
The headland just east of Stennis Ford. It has a number of good deep water...
17
--^-
DWS
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Chapel Point
Chapel Point is the closest venue to the St Govanís car park, although it sees...
8
__--
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Restricted Access
Trevallen
For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again....
59
_-^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
St Govan's
This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors;...
94
-^^^
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level

8 mins

 
St Govan's East
Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag...
32
_-^^
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Broadhaven Beach
This region has two main points of interest for deep water soloing. The first...
8
__--
DWS
Lots of sun!
Up and Down

20 mins

Tidal
Mowing Word
Mowing Word is one of those spots which can elude climbers year after year -...
35
_^^-
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
Stackpole
What an incredible spot; just when you thought you were all done at Pembroke,...
26
_-^^
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

30 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
Skrinkle Haven
Skrinkle Haven is the delightful area found to the south of the village of...
10
_--_
DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill

4 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Lydstep
This complex area is remarkable for its plethora of walls, caves and...
34
-^--
DWS
Sun and shade
Up and Down

7 mins

Tidal
Mother Carey's
Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing...
61
--^^
DWS
No sun
Downhill

10 mins

Tidal
Penally
The Penally Training Camp region is a remarkable and diverse collection of...
22
--^-
DWS
Lots of sun!
Level

10 mins

Tidal
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For Pembroke

    Brazen Buttress (Mother Carey's)
    "Harder than left wall a jug has gone (1997) where you move right. Your saving fa..." 02/Oct

    Snozwanger (Mowing Word)
    "I used to think this route was straight fowrad and well protected for HVS. Now t..." 30/Sep

    Shape-Up (Huntsman's Leap)
    "The worst route I've done in Pembroke. A muddy gully with awkward climbing and a..." 05/Aug

    Barrel Traverse (Caerbwdi Bay (Barrel Zawn))
    "Quite exciting 6b+ on very nice rock." 28/May

    Red Wall (Porth-Clais)
    "Climbed this for the first time in 12 years last summer, forgot how good it was,..." 29/Jan top50

    Wishful Thinking (The Castle)
    "^^She's right. Better climbing than Rock Idol! Over too soon, would be uber-clas..." 08/Sep

    Snake Charmer (Huntsman's Leap)
    "Harder than headhunter (E5 6a)to get to the crux then without any decent rests y..." 22/Jul

    The Crack (Porth-y-Ffynnon)
    "Brilliant climb, recommended for lower grade leading." 12/May top50

    Nijinsky (Mowing Word)
    "enjoyable climbing with a tricky crux and steep well-protected climbing above" 21/Dec

    Keelhaul (Bosherston Head)
    "The best E2 I've done in Pembroke, should be top 50. A beautiful, absorbing rout..." 16/Sep

    Photocall (St Govan's)
    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Welcome to the Cruise (Triple Overhang)
    "Agreed to all of the above. However, if you do want to re-live that feeling........" 08/Jul

    Sunset Boulevard (Saddle Head)
    "Above comment refers to the 1995 guidebook. The lines in the 2009 guidebook for ..." 08/Jul

    Sunset Boulevard (Saddle Head)
    "Agreed. I tried to go direct up the centre of the slab (shown as Sunset Boulevar..." 08/Jul

    Flax of Dream (Mowing Word)
    "lovely climbing in lower half up to mantle. From there I went directly right alo..." 30/Jun

    The Honey Monster (Huntsman's Leap)
    "Cracking atmospheric route in the depths of the Leap. Great second pitch with a ..." 13/Jun

    Daydreams (Mewsford)
    "A quality climb with three contrasting pitches, all of which have their moments...." 12/Jun

    Daydreams (Mewsford)
    "Agree that the second pitch felt like E2 5b in its own right- was technical and ..." 11/Jun

    Aquaplane (Porth-y-Ffynnon)
    "The Ab stake at the top of this is in a pretty bad state. I gave it a test kick..." 11/Jun

    Keelhaul (Bosherston Head)
    "Amazing route although being little slick at the bottom led to an over-griping p..." 07/Jun

    Sunny Corner (Bosherston Head)
    "Really awkward corner- good gear- but 'squirming' onto the hanging slab sums it ..." 01/Jun

    Photocall (St Govan's)
    "Good holds except just where you need them: unobvious 5c crux and worth E3 overa..." 01/Jun

    Joyous Gard (Mother Carey's)
    "Agree- felt more like E1 to me due to the length, steepness and exposure. Very s..." 28/May

    Tangerine Dream (St Govan's)
    "I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when..." 24/May top50

    Atmospheric Tent (The Castle)
    "You can avoid the slippery jam as there are other holds around. I'd give this a..." 13/May

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