Pembroke

Most of the routes in this section of the database are taken from the 2009 Pembroke Rockfax and the page numbers refer to that guidebook. Some of the crags are DWS crags and they appear in the book Deep Water.

Routes

709 trad routes (VD...D)
146 dws routes (3...8a)
50 of the Best Routes top50
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents


Crag (click for details) No. of Routes Grade Range Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Porth-Clais
The twin-crag setup of Porth-Clais is an inviting spot, with the two compact...
13
--__
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Porth-y-Ffynnon
Some 500m east of the cliffs of Porth-Clais are the excellent paired slabs of...
11
---_
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Initiation Slabs
The Initiation Slabs are typical North Pembroke - surrounded by other craglets...
10
--__
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Craig Caerfai
Another excellent sandstone slab, and with a good choice of grades. The rock...
14
_--_
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

8 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Carreg-y-Barcud
Carreg-y-Barcud is undoubtedly North Pembroke's finest sheet of sandstone; its...
46
--^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Flimston Bay
Regarded as a bit of an outpost from the more popular Pembroke haunts, Flimston...
23
-^--
Trad
No sun
Up and Down

0 mins

 
Mewsford
One of the problems with Mewsford is the huge number of brilliant routes that...
8
__--
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

30 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Crickmail Point
The south-facing aspect of Crickmail's compact exposed walls provide the...
9
---_
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

25 mins

Abseil
Triple Overhang
This fine, outstanding buttress (in every sense of the word) is a delight, and...
4
_--_
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

25 mins

 
Blockhouse to Sitting Bull
Between the jutting headland of the Castle, and the prow of Triple Overhang,...
13
---_
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
The Castle
The headland of The Castle is a bastion; a shapely disarming profusion of...
30
---^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Rusty Walls
A rugged west-facing slab suspended above a booming zawn, with one of...
12
__--
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

18 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Misty Walls
Which came first, the route names, or the crag name? Whatever way it happened...
12
-_--
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

18 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Hollow Caves Bay
Hollow Caves Bay is one of those mad places that you'll just have to delve into...
22
__^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

18 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Saddle Head
Saddle Head is one of the most popular locations in Pembroke because it...
21
-^-_
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

15 mins

 
Bosherston Head
Bosherston Head is the broad promontory between Huntsman's Leap and Saddle Head...
43
_-^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Huntsman's Leap
Opinions on Huntsman's Leap vary from the "best crag in the World" to "a grotty...
46
__-^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

8 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Stennis Head
The glorious and easily-accessed venue of Stennis Head has long been the place...
48
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

 
Stennis Ford
This impressive zawn is just a 5 minute walk west along the coast path from St...
9
---^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Newton Head
The headland just east of Stennis Ford. It has a number of good deep water...
17
--^-
DWS
Afternoon sun
Level

5 mins

Tidal
Chapel Point
8
__--
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

2 mins

Tidal
Trevallen
For some people the hardest thing about Trevallen is getting back out again....
45
_-^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

8 mins

Abseil
Tidal
St Govan's
This army-free region needs little introduction for most seasoned visitors;...
75
-^^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

8 mins

 
St Govan's East
Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag...
32
_-^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

10 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Mowing Word
Mowing Word is one of those spots which can elude climbers year after year -...
35
_^^-
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

25 mins

Abseil
Stackpole
Access Restriction - Stackpole has an agreed restriction because of nesting...
27
_-^^
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

25 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Mother Carey's
Mother Carey's Kitchen is one of Pembroke's best crags offering superb climbing...
49
--^^
DWS
No sun
Downhill

10 mins

Tidal
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For Pembroke

    Sheer Delight (Blockhouse to Sitting Bull)
    "Changed from S 4b ** to S **, no votes" 27/Aug top50

    Head Hunter (Huntsman's Leap)
    "The run outs and the fact people generally find it harder than bloody Sunday mea..." 31/May top50

    Sunsmoke (Mother Carey's)
    "Yes, this is a soft E2 in my opinion. The only hardship is in the last 20 feet a..." 28/May

    The Vicar's Goat (St Govan's East)
    "Totally agree with cockers, needs updating in next Rockfax." 25/Mar

    Keelhaul (Bosherston Head)
    "Set off in a confident mood which completely vanished after slipping on wet hold..." 09/Dec

    The Call Up (St Govan's)
    "This route is just as hideously hard as it looks. I couldn't even second it clea..." 07/Oct

    Brazen Buttress (Mother Carey's)
    "Harder than left wall a jug has gone (1997) where you move right. Your saving fa..." 02/Oct

    Snozwanger (Mowing Word)
    "I used to think this route was straight fowrad and well protected for HVS. Now t..." 30/Sep

    Shape-Up (Huntsman's Leap)
    "The worst route I've done in Pembroke. A muddy gully with awkward climbing and a..." 05/Aug

    Barrel Traverse (Caerbwdi Bay (Barrel Zawn))
    "Quite exciting 6b+ on very nice rock." 28/May

    Red Wall (Porth-Clais)
    "Climbed this for the first time in 12 years last summer, forgot how good it was,..." 29/Jan top50

    Wishful Thinking (The Castle)
    "^^She's right. Better climbing than Rock Idol! Over too soon, would be uber-clas..." 08/Sep

    Snake Charmer (Huntsman's Leap)
    "Harder than headhunter (E5 6a)to get to the crux then without any decent rests y..." 22/Jul

    The Crack (Porth-y-Ffynnon)
    "Brilliant climb, recommended for lower grade leading." 12/May top50

    Nijinsky (Mowing Word)
    "enjoyable climbing with a tricky crux and steep well-protected climbing above" 21/Dec

    Keelhaul (Bosherston Head)
    "The best E2 I've done in Pembroke, should be top 50. A beautiful, absorbing rout..." 16/Sep

    Photocall (St Govan's)
    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Welcome to the Cruise (Triple Overhang)
    "Agreed to all of the above. However, if you do want to re-live that feeling........" 08/Jul

    Sunset Boulevard (Saddle Head)
    "Above comment refers to the 1995 guidebook. The lines in the 2009 guidebook for ..." 08/Jul

    Sunset Boulevard (Saddle Head)
    "Agreed. I tried to go direct up the centre of the slab (shown as Sunset Boulevar..." 08/Jul

    Flax of Dream (Mowing Word)
    "lovely climbing in lower half up to mantle. From there I went directly right alo..." 30/Jun

    The Honey Monster (Huntsman's Leap)
    "Cracking atmospheric route in the depths of the Leap. Great second pitch with a ..." 13/Jun

    Daydreams (Mewsford)
    "A quality climb with three contrasting pitches, all of which have their moments...." 12/Jun

    Daydreams (Mewsford)
    "Agree that the second pitch felt like E2 5b in its own right- was technical and ..." 11/Jun

    Aquaplane (Porth-y-Ffynnon)
    "The Ab stake at the top of this is in a pretty bad state. I gave it a test kick..." 11/Jun

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