Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
A fine sustained route that begins just left of the huge groove.</br>1) 5a, 20m. Gain a small ledge (poor peg). Pass a bulge and follow a crack-line to a small, scary stance, 3m above the fault-line.</br>2) 5a, 20m. Traverse left under roofs and pull over, as for Prayers for Rain, at a good block. Skirt the roofs above and right, then move back left to a short corner. Swing right then pass some final roofs by another hand traverse rightwards to easier ground. Stake on the upper slope.
I'd always steered clear of this route in the past as the name put me off! But do it, it's really good at the grade, with decent gear (could even be HVS) but watch for rope drag on 2nd pitch.
Had an epic on P2 after Mark led P1 to the rightly described scary stance. After traversing left (bit scary) it was all loose rotten rock where I had to pull up and spent ages either accidentally or intentionally chucking lumps off before I eventually moved up and right. The route I then took seemed much more direct than that described in the guide. So tired by then though that I lobbed off on last steep move onto two solid cams. Loose at top as well, though not unusual for the Ruckle.