Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 99
A southern sport climbing classic with stunning moves on magnificent flowstone. Climb the fingery lower wall to a powerful midway stretch for good holds. Swing left and finish steeply up yet more flowstone.
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Very technical and polished. Quite exposed getting a clip for the short. Easily a 7b for an onsight. Might I just add that routes should be graded as if they were to be onsighted rather than for the redpoint.
This route is nowhere near 7b. In Portland terms it might be a bit low in the graded list but in the Peak, Yorkshire and certainly France and Spain, it would be low 7a+ and probably only 7a at many crags in France. If you made it 7b what would you do with Pump Hitler, Ironhead etc. ?
Tried it for the first time on Easter monday. Where is it getting polished? You might notice if you've tried it loads of times, but as an onsight attempt, it doesn't seem any more polished than any other route.
On a recent trip to France had to redpoint some 6c+'s and 7a's which were at least a grade harder than Englands Dreaming which I onsighted. It is a great route but certainly no more than 7a+ and as Alan James comments it would get only 7a at a lot of French crags.
Hmm complicated one, reckon the clips are hard for short people having taken a couple of wingers.and also pretty technical, seems more than just a + harder than medusa falls- which i reckon is more onsight friendly... top route though!
How is it whenever I'm chuffed about doing a route I always look on here to find everyone thinks it is overgraded :(
In reply to Paul ... You should NEVER grade sports climbs for the onsight
just a great route upto some good flow stone good rest in the grove if you can find it!
In reply to Niff... Not done it but isn't 7a+ somewhere near 7b Alan? Just being pedantic.It looks brill and is on my list for the next visit
Have to agree with Niff 7A+ and low end at that even with 10yrs + worth of polish. Still a great route though however if you think 7a+ and 7B are simular do this and then try want out at the cuttings!
If you have any doubt about the grade, step left and try Spanner Eyes...
Great route, with big powerful moves and one reachy clip if you're short, but not at all polished.
Wow, lots of comments! FredMead's totally correct about grading. It is slightly polished (I did notice this on the on-sight), there is one gnarly clip for the short (the penultimate) and its graded at fair value Fr7a+. Brilliant route.
Brilliant route. I'm a shorty and didn't notice a gnarly clip, and only a little polished.
much easier to redpoint. hidden sidepull is completely unneccesary. very polished/ damp feeling flatty on the crux. rest of route not really polished.
Great route. IMHO Relatively easy to do quickly or flash for Portland 7a+ as there aren't that many options and it's quite obvious what you have to do on the crux. Probably easier if you're tall, shorter people might have to use a more sneaky sequence. Quite polished but I think it is just this style of flowstone, doesn't really detract from the route which is still 3* and one of the best 7a+'s I've done.
Had a look at this yesterday- the entire top section of tufa is detached- climb with extreme caution