Yardarm

2 Stars
Pumpy
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Savage Earthsea < Caveman  |  Magical Mystery Tour > Rainbow Bridge >>


The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall..
1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete..
2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Roberts 4.8.1977

USER COMMENTS

Well worth 3 stars, fantastic positions, better than Moonraker. More Spacewalking than The Moon on Anglesey!
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

Certainly an interesting route. Amazing positions and decent gear (take lots of cams) on the one hand, disgusting rotten rock, loose blocks/grass/snails top-out and a bit of a death-scramble exit detract somewhat. Do it and make your own mind up, but prepare for a bit of an adventure!
Jon Stewart - 02/Sep/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E3 0 of 2
    E3 0 of 2
    easy E3 0 of 2
    hard E2 1 of 2
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    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 2 of 2
    easy 5b 0 of 2
    hard 5a 0 of 2
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    3 Stars 1 of 2
    2 Stars 0 of 2
    1 Star 1 of 2
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