| HS 4b|
<< None < None | Behemoth > Mastodon >>
A true classic of its grade, which follows an almost unbelievable path into, and out of territory that looks as though it should be reserved for far more extreme climbs. Start on ledges level with an orange, lichen-covered ledge (this is the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch) as viewed from the easy, rocky-ground that runs down the right side of the zawn. Photo on page 41..
1) 13m. Traverse horizontally rightwards past a bay to a good stance on the orange ledge..
2) 4b, 22m. Continue the traverse rightwards for a further 12m, then descend the steep wall and corner to a point just above the high-water mark. Move right to a stance and belay. This pitch requires careful route-finding, and is much trickier if damp..
2a) 4b, 18m. An inferior variation on the second pitch continues the traverse, below a long, narrow overhang, all the way to meet the base of the corner above the cave, and a restricted stance. This variation is less affected by sea conditions..
3) 4a, 38m. Take the wall above the stance to meet the corner at the overhang. Follow the corner in a breathtaking position, all the way to the top.
FA. Iain Peters, J.Bember 26.8.1966
Contender for the best HS in the country.
Si dH - 09/Jul/10
PS seconding pitch 2 is harder than leading it.
Si dH - 09/Jul/10
Not a very useful description of where to start - there are ledges everywhere, but you don't start on any of them (actually, we did, but only cos the book says so, we traversed 10m or so to reach the correct start - a better description of which should mention the short gully you descend to reach it).
"This pitch requires careful route-finding" - how so? You traverse right from the belay at just about any level until you reach the crack, then you downclimb using the obvious holds on the left.
Pitch 1 is possibly nudging 4a, but is definitely hugely exposed and fairly serious for both leader and second.
Agreed with Si dH about possibly the best HS in the country.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments