Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag.</br>1) 20m. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.</br>2) 20m. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.</br>3) 5m. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).</br>4) 15m. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.</br>5) 15m. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.</br>6) 15m. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived! </br>Descend the main gully to the right.
P3 description is inadequate, if you climb straight up the shallow groove on the wall it's VDiff fun for 20m but after a belay ledge there is a nasty wide crack in a blank wall (HS 4c?) to climb to reach belay for pitch 5 (the F.ing Direct variation!). Other guides describe traversing up and left on pitch 3.