Longland's Climb

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Boldest < The Black Cleft  |  Sheaf > West Buttress Eliminate >>


A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to breach the imposing West Buttress. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft.
1) 20m. Scramble across easy ground to a block and traverse right to a ledge below the narrow slabby corner.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb the slabby corner to a belay in the base of the widening chimney-crack.
3) 4b, 12m. Climb up the chimney and slab above either on the left (easier) or by pulling out right and traversing back above (better) to a belay on the right.
4) 35m. Easy climbing leads up the slab to a crevassed ledge on the right.
5) 4c, 25m. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply over the overhang on good but space holds. Then move right into and up a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top.
FA. J.Longland and party 5.1928

USER COMMENTS

Michael
MichaelJarrettPhD@Gmail.com
I did this route in 1968/69 it was absolutely wonderful - best climb I ever made by no means the hardest.
MOJarrett - 05/May/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

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