<< Outside Edge Route < Ordinary Route | Kirkus Direct > Central Variant >>
The best line up the main slab gives good sustained climbing that is never desperate. Start as for Ordinary Route.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb the wall to ledges below a forked diagonal crack. Climb the right-hand branch of this until you can pull back up left to a ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up a shallow scoop above and right, past a fixed sling. A groove leads up and left to a belay by a spike next to a ledge.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb up and slightly left to a good ledge.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb up to a bulging section and pass this on the right. Easier ground leads to the top.
FA. C.Kirkus, G.McPhee 31.5.1931
For the guidebook team - is this the right line as described in the classics guide? i think it might have been mistaken with the hvs.
chrism - 01/Aug/11
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