Energy Vampire

2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
 8a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Magnetic Fields < Overnite Sensation  |  Connect 4 > Raindogs >>


12m. A bouldery start with sustained climbing above.
FA. Mick Lovatt 1990

USER COMMENTS

Having done this route last weekend, I would give it bottom end 8a+. The start moves, although hard, are more like 6c than the 7a quoted in the rockfax. It's like doing a 10 move font 7b+ boulder problem to a flat ledge, followed by a french 7b route to the lower off. If you are not fit then beware as the top section is easily 'falloffable', as I did..many times!
Ted Kingsnorth - 23/Apr/02

Dear Ted.. How can you possibly comment on wheter the crux of the route is 6c(uk) rather than 7a(uk) when your falling off 7b?
Mick Lovatt - 10/May/03

If he was falling off the 7b then the crux moves are much more likely to be 6c(uk) than 7a(uk)...
Steve - 10/May/03

Mick, When I did this, I was very strong at bouldering but not fit in the slightest. Therefore I was pretty pumped after climbing the crux section and to link it into the top bit caused a few problems. The 7b on its own is quite tricky anyway, maybe its 7b+?? Fair enough its easy to do on its own but that's not the point here is it? As regards the grade of the crux, maybe the complete sequence is 7a but each individual move couldn't be that hard, certainly when you've got it wired.
Ted - 22/Sep/03

I did a new linkup yesterday of this. Follow Energy Vampire to its end at the ringbolt then step left to finish as for Connect 5 at the Overnite loweroff. Adds a proper finish. 'Vampire Sensation' seems appropriate, no change in grade
Ted Kingsnorth - 11/May/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 23
    hard 8b 0 of 15
    8b 0 of 15
    easy 8b 3 of 15
    hard 8a+ 0 of 15
    8a+ 4 of 15
    easy 8a+ 3 of 15
    hard 8a 5 of 15
    8a 0 of 15
    easy 8a 0 of 15
    3 Stars 2 of 8
    2 Stars 3 of 8
    1 Star 3 of 8
    0 Stars 0 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

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