Devil's Grip

2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
 7b+

Adjacent Routes
<< Vorsprung Durch Technik < Staying Power  |  Cruisin' for a Bruisin' > Bustin' the Block >>


16m. Start midway between two black streaks passing 5 bolts. The start is very tight ¤ ? but it is possible to down climb from the second bolt. The rest of the route is brilliant culminating in a pumpy finish. A rogue bolt out left is off the line.
FA. Steve Rhodes 1986

USER COMMENTS

Was hard before the undercut and thread broke. With the direct it must be worth 7c?
Paul Clarke - 01/Jun/04

Painful!
carl dawson - 27/Jun/05

Certainly painful! I thought more than a '+' harder than Cruisin' since it has: a more difficult start; a similar pumpy finish with further to go between some of the holds; and a crux.
S i'm on &amp; on - 07/Sep/05

Felt 7C to me. You cannot down climb from the second bolt and redpoint it up the easy groove of Cruisin like a certain guidebook writer is supposed to have done. 7b+ if you do this start and miss out the hard direct start.
Dave Cross - 18/Sep/06

The crux of the route is the start up to the second bolt. As has been said, the only way you would reverse from here is if you climbed using holds on the route to the right i.e. reaching in from the start of CFAB.
Rupert Davies - 05/Jun/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard 7c 0 of 12
    7c 0 of 12
    easy 7c 11 of 12
    hard 7b+ 1 of 12
    7b+ 0 of 12
    easy 7b+ 0 of 12
    hard 7b 0 of 12
    7b 0 of 12
    easy 7b 0 of 12
    3 Stars 3 of 10
    2 Stars 7 of 10
    1 Star 0 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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