Wee Beastie

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< None < None  |  Mygga > Storm Pillar >>

A line near the left-hand edge in four pitches. Start 50m up the slope to the left of the groove of Mygga.</br>1) 4, 50m. Pad up the slabs until they steepen to eventually reach a belay on the left at a small tree.</br>2) 6-, 55m. Climb up the buttress then go around the right-hand side of the ear-shaped feature that dominates the left-hand side of the buttress. Belay on small ledges above the ear.</br>3) 6, 25m. The thin crack above gives excellent climbing.</br>4) 4+, 30m. Move up and leftwards to a well-positioned jamming crack in the arete overlooking the gully.
FA. Mark Garthwaite, Mick Fowler 4.7.1999


The first pitch is harder than grade 4. It even has a bolt in middle of totally blank section of rock. Other than the bolt the protection of the first pitch is far from optimal quality (short, shallow, flaring cracks every now and then). We put up a belay next to a bush and then headed straight upwards towards another bolt in the middle of (yet again) blank section of rock.
jukka leinonen - 23/May/12

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