Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 4
A good set of pitches which can be combined with Klokkeren (page 150) to offer a different way up the face. Start up and right from the normal start at the steep gully filled with grass and loose blocks. Climb this for 55m (either the grassy buttress or water-washed groove on the right - a rope is advisable). Belay where the angle eases. 1) 4, 40m. Climb a short wall (loose) then traverse left for 20m across ledges and climb up towards the start of the huge left-facing groove. Belay on a ledge by some big flakes. 2) 5, 40m. Follow the steep corner with a crack and several good rests to a belay on a small grass ledge. 3) 5+ 35m. Continue up the groove to the roof and make a tricky traverse left for 10m then climb straight up cracks to Storhylla and a fixed belay. Choose a way on, or abseil off.
We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (rappelled from Storhyllan). The original start felt both nicer and harder... But then again I prefer crack climbing although I'm not that good at it.
I find it way easier then the direct start, but really good to climb. Best is doing both and climb the upper part twice. What a great route.