Vestpillaren Original Start
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A good set of pitches which can easily be combined with Klokkern to offer a different way up the face. Start up and right from the Direct Start at the steep gully filled with grass and some loose blocks. Climb this for 55m (either the grassy buttress or water-washed groove on the right - a rope is advisable.) Belay where the angle eases.
1) 4, 40m. Climb a short wall (loose) then traverse left for 20m across ledges and climb up towards the start of the huge left-facing groove. Belay on a ledge by some big flakes.
2) 5, 40m. Follow the steep corner with a hand/fist crack and several good rests to a belay on a small grass ledge.
3) 5+ 35m. Continue up the groove to the roof and make a tricky traverse left for 10m then climb straight up cracks to Storhylla and a fixed belay. Choose a way on, or abseil off.
FA. Arild Meyer, Brynjar Tollefsen 18.6.1978. As part of Vestpillaren.
We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (rappelled from Storhyllan). The original start felt both nicer and harder... But then again I prefer crack climbing although I'm not that good at it.
jukka leinonen - 06/Aug/11
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