The Diedre Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< White Feather < Claws  |  Worlds in Collision > Ken >>


The large open corner gives the best mid-grade trad route on the crag, which can be climbed if a little seepage is present. High in the sky and low in the grade. 1) 5a, 27m. Follow the corner to a bulge. Move onto the right wall and climb up before stepping back into the corner and a ledge on the left. All a bit floral but very pleasant. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb above the belay to a bulge. Pull around this awkwardly to gain a rest (thread). Move left and climb up to a tree. Traverse back into the corner and follow it to the top and a bolt belay/lower-off. A direct finish up the corner System of a Down, E4 6b gives a technical and equally good but hard alternative.
FFA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1972. FA. John Sumner, Dave Alcock 1956. . FA. (System of a Down) Derek Hargreaves, Paul Wheeler 23.6.2005

USER COMMENTS

Excellent climbing up the line of the crag and it never gets done. I don't care if you've done comedy, you haven't done kilnsey's finest until you've dragged your over-size biceps up this.
alexis perry - 08/Aug/02

A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging.

Chris
Chris Craggs - 21/Oct/03

I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet!

Dave
Dave Musgrove - 12/Feb/04

And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down.

Enty
Tree Beard - 19/Apr/04

On second pitch I just kept going up the corner, to give some really good climbing although much harder than the normal way at ~6a? to finish at a lower off. There is some fixed gear so what is this direct route?
Julian Maund - 27/May/09

Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre looks hard and quality. What is it?
David Warburton - 22/May/10

Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher up, when it stops feeling like 5b, move left to the big tree, then follow the traverse line back right to lower off's
Adam Lincoln - 10/Jul/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 23
    hard E3 0 of 8
    E3 0 of 8
    easy E3 0 of 8
    hard E2 1 of 8
    E2 4 of 8
    easy E2 3 of 8
    hard E1 0 of 8
    E1 0 of 8
    easy E1 0 of 8
    hard 5c 0 of 7
    5c 0 of 7
    easy 5c 0 of 7
    hard 5b 1 of 7
    5b 4 of 7
    easy 5b 2 of 7
    hard 5a 0 of 7
    5a 0 of 7
    easy 5a 0 of 7
    3 Stars 8 of 8
    2 Stars 0 of 8
    1 Star 0 of 8
    0 Stars 0 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

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