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236m. (Only Bilberries) A pure classic and, despite its distance from the road, it is hugely popular. The name is Norwegian for a task of no great difficulty, obviously it refers to the actual climb and not the walk in.
1) 4, 26m. Start up a small slab and move up to a shallow, left-facing corner. Up this, or climb a thin finger-crack on the right, to reach a good ledge at the base of a main crack.
2) 5-, 34m. Finger and hand jam up the fantastic crack above to a small belay stance where the angle of the rock lessens. Cams helpful at the belay.
3) 5-, 32m. Continue up the V-groove, which steepens and becomes increasingly awkward. When the crack inside the groove becomes too thin, step out right around the arete into a hand-crack. Climb up this to a good belay at flakes and a ledge.
4) 5-, 28m. Layback the flake wedged inside the V-groove above until you reach several loose chockstones. Now step delicately to the right around the corner into a hidden hand-crack and climb this to more flakes and another good stance.
5) 5-, 40m. Continue up the single, sustained crack system splitting the upper slab - elegant finger and hand jamming up perfect rock. When the crack finally thins, face climb to the right to a bolt and chain belay to the left of a huge flake.
6) 5-, 40m. An unlikely looking pitch with excellent climbing. Climb up and move left to pass a small roof. Step back right and follow a shallow groove and crack system more or less straight up the upper slab to a small belay stance with a two bolt belay.
7) 4-, 36m. One last pitch leads up the easier slab above to reach a belay at the base of the cliff’s steeper headwall. Beware of loose rock on this final pitch and the fact there will be climbers below.
Descent - Abseil back down the line of the route in five, six or seven abseils, depending on the length of your ropes.
FA. “Arild Meyer had told us there was probably a good new climb up there,” remembered Tim Hansen. “Ingun and I had come up to Lofoten so that she could teach a climbing course for the Nord Norsk Klatreskole.” Well, Arild was certainly right. Tim Hansen and Ingun Raastad made the first ascent of this classic route in the summer of 1986.
A great route. The walk in is not bad if you don't get lost - there is a small path all the way, but people do miss it. Take water - we were therein midsummer and some parties turned back because of the heat.
Steve Lenartowicz - 12/Mar/08
Brilliant climbing, take your towel to cool of in the Fjord. Beware when you rap off. Some folk get their ropes stuck in the really wide chimney.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08
Fantastic route with great climbing. Pitch 5 being my favourite pitch climbed in a 2 week trip. The top pitch must be more then 36m, our 50m ropes were only just enough, although we didn't take the most direct line.
Jonathan Morgan - 06/Jul/08
1. The last pitch is about 50m to the anchor.
2. Beware, the descent is _not_ 3 abseils like described in the guidebook - then you'd need a 100m rope. We met several people which tried to do the descent in 3 abseils like described in the book and ended up hanging in the end of their rope 20-30 meters above the next anchor. Thus, we did the descent with 5 abseils, from the 7th 6th 5th and 4th stances and finally the anchor in the groove on the right side (which was painted on the photo in the guidebook).
Anders Fougner - 28/Jul/08
The approach takes average 90minutes. The update has a new descent described, it's good.
jukka leinonen - 31/Aug/10
Every route in the guide assumes that you have 2x60 meter ropes. In that case you can rap off Bara Blåbär with 3-4 absails.
Gunnar Alm - 12/Jul/11
Usually, the local guides ar coming here with their groupes on Thursday. Maybe better to plan another day or even to ask in the office. Its a pretty long approach to see that your number 12 in the line.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12
The advice on abseiling, both in the guide and the update, is out of date. The best way is (from the top): one abseil to the previous stance, a second abseil to bolts/chains further right (looking in) of the stance at the end of pitch 5; then 3 further abseils directly down well to the right (looking in) of the route. This is all equipped with bolts/chains and 50-m ropes are fine. Mega-classic route, a must-do.
Coel Hellier - 31/Jul/12
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