Bare blåbær Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 5-

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236m. (Only Bilberries) A pure classic and, despite its distance from the road, it is hugely popular. The name is Norwegian for a task of no great difficulty, obviously it refers to the actual climb and not the walk in.
1) 4, 26m. Start up a small slab and move up to a shallow, left-facing corner. Up this, or climb a thin finger-crack on the right, to reach a good ledge at the base of a main crack.
2) 5-, 34m. Finger and hand jam up the fantastic crack above to a small belay stance where the angle of the rock lessens. Cams helpful at the belay.
3) 5-, 32m. Continue up the V-groove, which steepens and becomes increasingly awkward. When the crack inside the groove becomes too thin, step out right around the arete into a hand-crack. Climb up this to a good belay at flakes and a ledge.
4) 5-, 28m. Layback the flake wedged inside the V-groove above until you reach several loose chockstones. Now step delicately to the right around the corner into a hidden hand-crack and climb this to more flakes and another good stance.
5) 5-, 40m. Continue up the single, sustained crack system splitting the upper slab - elegant finger and hand jamming up perfect rock. When the crack finally thins, face climb to the right to a bolt and chain belay to the left of a huge flake.
6) 5-, 40m. An unlikely looking pitch with excellent climbing. Climb up and move left to pass a small roof. Step back right and follow a shallow groove and crack system more or less straight up the upper slab to a small belay stance with a two bolt belay.
7) 4-, 36m. One last pitch leads up the easier slab above to reach a belay at the base of the cliff’s steeper headwall. Beware of loose rock on this final pitch and the fact there will be climbers below.
Descent - Abseil back down the line of the route in five, six or seven abseils, depending on the length of your ropes.

FA. “Arild Meyer had told us there was probably a good new climb up there,” remembered Tim Hansen. “Ingun and I had come up to Lofoten so that she could teach a climbing course for the Nord Norsk Klatreskole.” Well, Arild was certainly right. Tim Hansen and Ingun Raastad made the first ascent of this classic route in the summer of 1986.

USER COMMENTS

A great route. The walk in is not bad if you don't get lost - there is a small path all the way, but people do miss it. Take water - we were therein midsummer and some parties turned back because of the heat.
Steve Lenartowicz - 12/Mar/08

Brilliant climbing, take your towel to cool of in the Fjord. Beware when you rap off. Some folk get their ropes stuck in the really wide chimney.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

Fantastic route with great climbing. Pitch 5 being my favourite pitch climbed in a 2 week trip. The top pitch must be more then 36m, our 50m ropes were only just enough, although we didn't take the most direct line.
Jonathan Morgan - 06/Jul/08

1. The last pitch is about 50m to the anchor.
2. Beware, the descent is _not_ 3 abseils like described in the guidebook - then you'd need a 100m rope. We met several people which tried to do the descent in 3 abseils like described in the book and ended up hanging in the end of their rope 20-30 meters above the next anchor. Thus, we did the descent with 5 abseils, from the 7th 6th 5th and 4th stances and finally the anchor in the groove on the right side (which was painted on the photo in the guidebook).
Anders Fougner - 28/Jul/08

The approach takes average 90minutes. The update has a new descent described, it's good.
jukka leinonen - 31/Aug/10

Every route in the guide assumes that you have 2x60 meter ropes. In that case you can rap off Bara Blåbär with 3-4 absails.
Gunnar Alm - 12/Jul/11

Usually, the local guides ar coming here with their groupes on Thursday. Maybe better to plan another day or even to ask in the office. Its a pretty long approach to see that your number 12 in the line.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

The advice on abseiling, both in the guide and the update, is out of date. The best way is (from the top): one abseil to the previous stance, a second abseil to bolts/chains further right (looking in) of the stance at the end of pitch 5; then 3 further abseils directly down well to the right (looking in) of the route. This is all equipped with bolts/chains and 50-m ropes are fine. Mega-classic route, a must-do.
Coel Hellier - 31/Jul/12

Incredible route and beautiful view.

Would agree that the walk in is 90 minutes. The last pitch was about 46 meters to the belay chain.

We abseiled with 50m ropes in 5 pitches, using chains all the way.
inspirationnneeded - 02/Jul/13

Length for pitch 2 is incorrect. Its more like 23m than 34m
omer.qadir - 22/Jul/14

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