The Watchtower Traverse
<< Something Ducky < Duck L'Orange | The Watchtower Traverse > Troy Tempest >>
(First third only, as far as Thunder Hole). Even though the Watchtower Traverse in its entirety weighs in at 225m and 6c+, I've separated the post Thunder Hole half of the route. This is because Thunder Hole itself has one section that still uses a rope for aid (or protection) and the latter section of the route offers little in the way of good rock and nice positions, despite appearances. By contrast, the first section, across an almost endless tapestry of slanted diagonal cracks on a steep slab, gives some really superb climbing, burying the soloist within some really solid, colourful architecture. The final bonus; you'll rarely be further than 4m from the sea!
95m. Down-climb the slabs on the east side of London Bridge, and traverse all the way to the big cave feature of Thunder Hole, with good water all the way. There are sometimes a few moves on slabs that you'd probably need to 'push' away from, in the event of a slip. Be prepared for a swim back. Not in current guidebook.
FSA. Pete Biven, Frank Cannings, Martin Springett 28.12.1968