Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
A brilliant crack-climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove. </br>1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.</br>2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.</br>3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation. Not in current guidebook.
A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.