Via Vita

1 Stars
Technical
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Medusa < Hades  |  Via Vita Direct > Mealy Bugs >>


A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space is the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.
1) 4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of Medusa to the shattered wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't want it to be; out into space.
2) 5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild.
The Sinister Finish, E1 5b - From the small ledge it is also possible to head left to a crack. Even more exposed.
FA. John Loy, Dave Mellor (1pt) 1960

USER COMMENTS

Unbalanced and somewhat overrated with lots of indifferent climbing and only a short interesting bit.
roger whetton - 20/Sep/03

Glad to see it upgraded here.The step right never felt like HVS 5b.
mick b - 05/Apr/04

The Sinister finish has an "airy" move but does not justify E1 5B-you can place protection above your head in the crack at the back of the niche before pulling up-HVS 5A (top end)
Bob Bennett - 23/Apr/04

I'd say that you've got The Sinister Finish right at mild E1 5b (and I'd also say, if I dare, that its better than the ordinary finish!)
roger whetton - 22/Jun/04

A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually unclimbed on at that time.
Al Evans - 15/Sep/06

The nest that was on the "tiny" ledge (which is actually quite a respectable size) has now been removed but the ledge is still rather dirty!
roger whetton - 18/Jun/13

Surprisingly good route! Wild positions and a thuggy crux (not technical), on reasonable rock. Worth the effort!
Jon Stewart - 10/Sep/14

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