Ruthin Area
Devil's Gorge
Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry
World's End
Craig Arthur
Twilight Area
Pinfold
Monk's Buttress
Dinbren
Trevor Area
Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech
Pontesford
Access
As with most climbing areas in the UK there have always been
access issues on the various crags covered in this edition of Clwyd
Limestone. Nesting birds, flora, historical sites, land ownership,
gardening and dogs have all been causes for disagreements in the
past. Despite this, and thanks to the great work of the BMC and
its volunteers, most of the crags in this book currently have good
access arrangements.
CX
There are some restrictions at certain times of year
so please keep a look out for the red symbols. The
restrictions are usually because of nesting birds and the dates
generally range from the beginning of February to the end of July.
Where a bird restriction applies to a section of the crag rather than the whole crag markers
at the base of the crag like the one shown above are usually in place and climbing should
only take place between the green arrows. Birds do nest in previously unrestricted areas
and the absence of an agreed restriction does not mean that there are no nesting birds.
Check UKC or BMC RAD if you are unsure. If you see agitated birds (lots of screeching and
taking off and landing in the same spot, as well as aggressive flying in circles) then it is best
to avoid that area even if there is no agreed restriction and report to the BMC.
Other crags have very precise parking and approach requirements. You will need to seek
permission before you visit Maeshafn Quarry.
Individual crag access is covered in the respective chapters. Please read this information
carefully and take great care not to infringe these necessary restrictions. If in any doubt
contact the BMC (Tel: 0161 445 6111), or check the access section of the BMC website -
thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/
28
Clwyd Limestone Climbingâ
Access
Climbing access information sign at Trevor Quarry.
Bird restriction marker.
Climbing only to be undertaken
between the green arrows when
restriction is in place.
