Clwyd Limestone 2015 - page 39

Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area
Dinbren Monk's Buttress
Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur
World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area
Approach
Sun
Shelt-
ered
Dry in
Rain
Restric-
tions
Summary
Page
G
5 min
Y *
Hidden in dense woodland below Denbigh Castle, the crag
offers a number of mid-grade sport routes. Conditions are
variable and the face can get dirty.
42
S
10 - 20 min
R *
!
A little-visited escarpment of excellent rock that has some
intense short sport climbs. Butterfly Buttress has also been
developed as a good bouldering venue. Sensitive access.
44
G
5 min
Y * !
An impressive gash in the hillside that has a large
overhanging face which offers excellent high grade stamina
routes. Conditions are crucial and the base is often muddy.
52
S
5 - 6 min
R *
A long, low line of vertical walls on a sheltered hillside. Good
quality rock and plenty of low- to mid-grade trad routes. A
great evening crag in a beautiful rural setting.
58
S
6 min
R *
In a lovely setting, these quarried walls are cut by numerous
cracks that give lots of low- to mid-grade trad lines. Easy
access and a good pub close by add to its appeal.
70
F
5 - 10 min
E
*
Only a minor venue but worth a look if in the area. The
limited selection of sport routes are deceptive being more
difficult than first appearances might suggest.
76
S
12 - 14 min
R
A series of tiered cliffs set in a stunning location at the end
of the Eglwyseg Valley. Lots of testing trad routes throughout
the grades on generally good limestone.
82
S
35 min
R $
C
One of the region's biggest cliffs that has lots of mid- to
high-grade sport lines as well as plenty of adventurous trad
routes. Very exposed to the elements but dries quickly.
96
S
17 - 25 min
R $
Rarely visited and a good place to avoid the crowds. The
escarpment has a mix of sport and trad climbs mainly in the
mid grades.
116
D
13 - 20 min
E $
The extensive line of cliff has something for all - sport,
trad and multi-pitch. Some of the area's classic climbs are
hereabouts. A good destination for teams of varying ability.
128
F
20 min
R $
C
A little-visited and shady cliff. Lots of interesting pitches for
the enthusiast and a handful of good harder lines and trad
cracks worth travelling for. Some climbs will need cleaning.
154
D
7 - 10 min
R $
C
One of the region's major mid- to high-grade sport climbing
destinations. The long low escarpment is composed of high
quality bulging limestone and also has good trad climbs.
160
S
2 - 13 min
R
*
C
Very popular venue that has a huge number of low- to mid
-grade sport routes along its length. The quarry itself has a
few trad climbs. It can be reached on foot from Llangollen.
198
G
10 min
} *
C
Large quarry set below Trevor Quarry and offering a similar
type of climbing at a slightly higher grade. The climbs are
fairly new and the rock needs handling with care in places.
215
F
10 min
Y * !
An extremely steep venue with just two routes. Of local
interest only as good conditions are difficult to find but, once
dry, climbing in the rain is possible. Not limestone.
221
D
25 min
R $
C
Set deep in a remote and beautiful valley, the crag is a great
place for low- to mid-grade trad climbing. Exposed to the
elements so only visit in good weather. Not limestone.
224
A
5 - 10 min
{ *
!
X
A huge quarry with some massive (35m) single pitch sport
climbs and number of fine trad pitches. A popular spot as
conditions are often excellent and the climbing superb.
230
S
15 min
W
C
A charming venue set in a gorgeous landscape with great
views. Low- to mid-grade trad climbing both single and multi-
pitch. Not limestone.
252
Faded symbol means that only some of the routes are: sheltered / dry in the rain / restricted
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