S u p p o r t l o c a l b o l t i n g v o l u n t e e r s
Gear
Most of the sport routes described in this
book have good solid bolts and lower-offs in
place. For the vast majority of routes a 60m
rope and 14 quickdraws is sufficient to climb
them. However, there are a number of lines
that will require a longer rope to get down
(and probably more quickdraws).
To avoid
any doubt, always tie a stopper knot in the
dead end of the rope to ensure that it will
not pass through the belay device.
The trad routes are best climbed on double
ropes and are protected with a standard
rack of wires, cams and slings. Many of the
harder trad climbs also rely on fixed threads
and pegs. All fixed gear should be treated
with caution because many of the pegs and
threads are old and at times might be the only
protection available.
Bolting
The work of maintaining the bolts has been
carried out by many people and has been a
huge task. If you come across any routes that
need re-equipping then please submit your
comments to the databases on -
rockfax.com
or
sportsclimbs.co.uk
Gary Gibson Bolt Fund
Gary Gibson is by far the most prolific bolter in
the Clwyd area. Many of the routes on crags like
Llanymynech, Trevor and Independence Quarry
plus the Eglwyseg crags owe their existence to
the bolting efforts of Gary. If you enjoy the sport
climbing in the area then please consider making
a donation to this effort. You can find the links to
the PayPal page via
UKBoltFund.org
. Proceeds
from some of the sales of this guidebook will go
towards the Gary Gibson Bolt Fund.
Ruthin Area
Devil's Gorge
Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry
World's End
Craig Arthur
Twilight Area
Pinfold
Monk's Buttress
Dinbren
Trevor Area
Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech
Pontesford
30
Clwyd Limestone Climbingâ
Gear and Bolting
Mark Glaister climbing
Subterranean Sidewalk
(6c+)
-
page 249
- at
Llanymynech Quarry, one of many routes featured in this book
climbed and equipped by Gary Gibson. Photo: John Warner
