Erosion
The increased popularity of climbing has
caused erosion problems, especially under
crags are used by lots of groups, and with
a proliferation of paths at popular venues.
Overuse of chalk also has impact on the rock
and looks unsightly, as does needless wire
brushing. Littering has also become an issue
and this includes using the crag environs as
a toilet.
Some general guidelines:
- Don't stray from the popular paths
- Use less chalk
- Don't use wire brushes
- Take your litter home
- Go before you go!
Rock Damage
There is no reason to try to improve holds
on any of the routes on grit, if you think
otherwise then you are wrong.
Cams are very effective at levering loose
flakes - please think before you place them.
Damage to routes sometimes happens when
attempting to retrieve stuck gear. Runners
that get stuck are usually poorly placed, so
think before you place it. If a runner does get
properly jammed it may be better leaving it for
someone who can get it out without wrecking
the rock.
Group Usage
The nationwide network of indoor walls has
introduced a new generation to climbing. As
these climbers develop, many look to move
outdoors which has resulted in a significant
increase in courses offered by instructors,
schools and outdoor centres. This is a good
thing but it has lead to some problems on
the popular edges.
- Monopolisation of popular classic routes at
busy times.
- The use of inappropriate and dirty footwear
leading to much more damage to holds.
- Putting people on climbs that are too hard
for them leading rock being damaged while
they scrabble around on the rope.
- Sending a convoy of folks abseiling down
popular lines causing significant erosion.
- Repeated use of the same venues. Places
like the left-hand end of the Black Rocks and
the first bay at Yarncliffe Quarry are showing
serious signs of environmental degradation.
The effects of overuse need to be
considered by all visitors to the crags. If you
must visit the cliffs in a large group, please
consider other climbers.
- Keep your kit in one area and avoid
monopolising popular routes for long periods.
- Arrange yourselves into several small
groups rather than one large one.
- Pull your ropes down when they are not
being used so that others can climb.
Good group practice at Stanage - using less popular routes,
keeping to a compact area and protecting the cliff edge.
Sheffield Area
Ladybower Area
Stanage
BurbageValley
Millstone Area
Derwent Edges
Chatsworth Area
Southern Crags
A busy day at Dover's Wall.
26
Eastern Grit Climbingâ
Environmental Considerations
