4
Ruthin Area
Devil's Gorge
Maeshafn Pot Hole Quarry Minera Quarry
World's End
Craig Arthur
Twilight Area
Pinfold
Monk's Buttress
Dinbren
Trevor Area
Pandy Outcrop Llanymynech
Pontesford
The long moorland covered spine of the Clwydian hills runs down the Welsh side of the
northern borders of Wales and England and is dotted with picturesque villages and beautiful
isolated valleys. Lurking toward the southern end of the range is the Eglwyseg valley - a
spectacular layered escarpment of limestone that provides the centrepiece of climbing in the
region and this guidebook.
The Eglwyseg valley is set high above the tourist trap of Llangollen and its magnificent
frontage can only be fleetingly glimpsed from the main A5 road that rushes people on toward
Snowdonia. However, for those that make the surprisingly short diversion up into the valley a
revelation of fine limestone crags and climbing awaits. The line of natural cliffs has four main
sections that begin in the narrowing head of the valley at World's End and conclude at the
unbroken strip of Dinbren. Both traditional and sport climbs are numerous in the valley with
the easily-accessed Dinbren now firmly established on the destination list of must-visit sport
crags. Its concentration of high quality and well equipped lines and wonderful outlook are
guaranteed to maintain the crag's popularity, and even though new routes have been steadily
added over the last decade there is still some space left for more. Moving up the valley is the
long Pinfold escarpment, and the towering rampart of Craig Arthur. These tend to be quieter
but are both excellent destinations plastered with superb sport and trad climbs. Finally, just
as the valley pinches and opens out onto the moors, is World's End - an enduring traditional
venue that still attracts those after some good amenable trad routes.
As the Eglwyseg valley fans out opposite the hilltop ruin of Castell Dinas the escarpment has
been quarried in the distant past. The string of quarried faces have now been fully developed
into a very popular sport climbing area known collectively as Trevor Area. The plethora of
routes and stunning outlook are just two of many reasons to visit.
To the north of Eglwyseg Valley are several limestone quarries. Some are quaint trad spots
such as Pot Hole and Maeshafn quarries. For the harder climber, the narrow defile of Devil's
Gorge, once dried out, has some good stamina sport routes.
4
Clwyd Limestone
Introduction
The low quarried walls of the Trevor Area are home to some
great sport routes in the 4 to 6 grade range. The climbing in this
area has become very popular offering plenty of options, an easy
approach and stunning views out over Castell Dinas to the Berwyn
mountains and beyond. In this photo of the Suspect Wall a climber
is surmounting the overhang of
No Remittal
(6a) -
page 211
.
