Pontesford Llanymynech Pandy Outcrop Trevor Area
Dinbren Monk's Buttress
Pinfold Twilight Area Craig Arthur
World's End Minera Quarry Pot Hole Quarry Maeshafn Devil's Gorge Ruthin Area
Introduction . . . . . . . . 4
The Rockfax App . . . . . 8
Symbol, Map and Topo Key . 9
Previous Guidebooks . . . 10
Acknowledgements . . . . 12
Clwyd Limestone Logistics 16
Getting Around and Maps . . . 18
Accommodation . . . . . 20
Pubs and Climbing Shops . 22
Climbing Walls and Cafes . 24
Clwyd Limestone Climbing . 26
Access . . . . . . . . . 28
Gear and Bolting . . . . . 30
Grades . . . . . . . . . 32
Sport Graded List . . . . . 34
Trad Graded List . . . . . 36
Destination Planner . . . . 38
Ruthin and Mold Area . . . 40
Denbigh Castle Quarry . . . 42
Ruthin Escarpment . . . . 44
Devil's Gorge . . . . . . 52
Maeshafn Quarry . . . . . 58
Pot Hole Quarry . . . . . 70
Minera Quarry . . . . . . 76
Eglwyseg Valley . . . . . . 80
World's End . . . . . . . 82
Craig Arthur . . . . . . . 96
Twilight Area . . . . . . .116
Pinfold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Monk's Buttress . . . . . 154
Dinbren . . . . . . . . 160
Trevor Area . . . . . . . 196
Trevor Quarry . . . . . . 198
Independence Quarry . . 215
Ruabon Quarry . . . . . 221
Outlying Areas . . . . . . 222
Pandy Outcrop . . . . . 224
Llanymynech Quarry . . . 230
Pontesford Rocks . . . . 252
Route Index . . . . . . . 258
Crag Index . . . . . . . 263
Map and General Index . . 264
3
Mark Pretty on the Devil's Gorge classic
Grand
Canyon
(7b+)
-
page 55
. The Devil's Gorge is
an impressive gash in the hillside with its 25m
overhanging east wall with a set of tough sport
climbs on it. Once dry it provides an option for a
rainy day and plenty of shade. Photo: Tim Glasby
Contents
Clwyd Limestone