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Swanage Lulworth Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Coastguard N
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse
CheyneWeare
Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship Blacknor FS
The long crack is the line of the trad route
Broadway, E3 5c
,
whilst the arete to its right is the trad line of
Manhattan Skyline,
E4 6a
.
q
Skyscraper .
1
sΩ
7a
A sustained route following the crisp grey wall.
FA. Gary Gibson 28.8.2002
w
H'electric Boogaloo .
2
tΩ
6b
Start in a cave and climb out along the left wall. Pull around into
a crack and follow this into a scoop. The groove above leads to
the lower-off.
FA. Neal Heanes, Gavin Symonds 4.5.2000
e
The Bronx.
2
tΩ
6c+
Climb up leftwards to a good ledge. The arete above gives the
main interest of the route.
FA. Gary Gibson 7.5.2002
The full-height wide crack is the trad line
Easy Cleft, HS 4a
. To
its right are the remains of the route
American Beauty, 6c
, the
first 3 of its lower bolts are still in place.
Right is a twisting flake-line of the trad route
Vesuvius, VS
.
r
California Dreams .
1
rΩ
6b+
A low and reachy crux. The first bolt is at 4m on the right.
FA. Alan Betts, Andy Long 25.5.2000
7
From a Buick Eight.
1
stΩ
7b
Immaculate rock and climbing, taking the undercut arete and
then the right-hand side of the sharp upper arete.
FA. Gary Gibson 7.5.2002
8
New York Dolls .
2
sΩ
6a+
Exciting, clean and open climbing up the lovely grey groove
which gets harder towards the top. High in the grade.
FA. Pete Oxley, C.Collins 9.5.1998
9
The Devil's Work.
Ω
6b+
The recessed flake-line in the corner is dirty.
FA. Neil Burton 6.10.1996
0
Marshalling Amps .
1
Ω
7b
An impressive pitch up the finger-crack and wall. Split at half-
height by a resting ledge, but still high in the grade.
FA. Gary Gibson 15.9.2002
6
7
8
9
0
q
w
e
r
173
Manhattan Skyline Area
Coastguard South
Manhattan Skyline Area
The continuation wall running right from the Grip ‘89 Area
has a number of strong lines on good rock. The area has
suffered the loss of one route due to rockfall.
Tides -
The base of the routes are covered at high tide.
Keep away in rough seas.
Approach (see page 166) -
Continue along the boulder
beach and platform from the Grip ‘89 Area.
22m
American Beauty
(3 bolts remain)