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Swanage
Lulworth
Portland
Blacknor C
Blacknor B
Blacknor N
Blacknor S
Battleship BC
Wallsend S
Coastguard S
Lighthouse CheyneWeare Cuttings
White Hole
Wallsend N
Battleship
Blacknor FS
Coastguard N
3
Biscuits for Smut.
2
sΩ
7b
An attractive hanging groove which requires some thought and
is difficult to flash.
FA. Pete Oxley 30.9.1994
4
Reactor Meltdown .
2
thΩ
7b+
Start up
Biscuits for Smut,
via its conglomerate, then move right
to a hidden flake. Follow the arete above on its left-hand side in
a great position. Technical and superb.
FA. Pete Oxley 27.5.1998
The next section is where the huge rockfall occurred. The rock
here has not yet stabilised sufficiently to offer any new routes.
5
Guardian Angel.
2
tsΩ
7b+
Superb face work with a complex blind crack in the headwall.
Pass the third bolt directly for the 7b+ grade.
FA. Pete Oxley 2.5.1998
6
Brooklyn Bimbo.
2
stΩ
7b+
The lower half packs it in on amazing flowstone while the upper
arete is exhilarating. It is slightly spoilt by a mid-height ledge
and is much harder in greasy conditions.
FA. (Original) Martin Crocker 29.6.1991. FA. (Direct) Pete Oxley 12.5.1998
Just above the base of the approach slope is an isolated slabby
boulder with some short bolted lines on it - not listed here.
The first few routes lie 150m south of the approach slope, above
a conglomerate-filled gully that lies behind a detached pillar. The
most obvious feature is a weird suspended pillar of fused calcite
and welded rubble on the left-hand side of the wall.
1
Seat of Learning.
1
fstΩ
7c
Super technical and powerful climbing up a surprisingly difficult
scoop on small layaways. Follow
Font of Knowledge
for the first
8m and stay just right of bolts 5 and 6.
FA. Pete Oxley 27.5.1998
2
The Font of Knowledge.
2
sΩ
7c
A big line direct up the impending face with some tough moves
at the top.
FA. Pete Oxley 18.5.1998
1
2
3
4
5 6
172
Coastguard South
Grip '89 Area
Grip '89 Area
This excellent area is easy to reach and has some great
rock. Sadly the central section fell down in the winter of
2000/01. It contained several routes including
Grip ‘89
,
the route this sector took its name from.
Approach (see page 166) -
As for Coastguard North,
but turn left (facing out) at the bottom of the descent path
and scramble past some huge boulders to ledges.
Tides -
The left-hand side of the wall is pretty much non-
tidal, although it is best to keep away in rough seas.
RF%
15 min
24m
24m